new rectifier

[theof]

I've just fitted a new rectifier to my K6, this part - http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cb_750_k6/77/picture/regulator_rectifier/

It has a slightly different orientation to the original that was on my bike, and the metal rectifier body is fouling on the frame.  Might this cause a short?

I ask because since fitting the new rectifier (and a new loom), the starter solenoid 'clicks' and the starter doesn't turn (it was turning before). Bike starts fine on the kickstart though, oil pressure and neutral lights work fine. other than these two lights and the starter switches nothing else is connected behind the headlight yet.

Any ideas on what might be causing the starter solenoid 'click'?

here is a picture with the new rectifier fitted (before the new loom went it, you can see the burnt out green (and other) wires)

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and another picture of behind the headlight, with just the neutral light, oil pressure light and starter switches connected to new loom.

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[gtmdriver]

Generally if the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't spin the engine it's because it's not getting any/enough current.

Did you disturb any of the wires to the solenoid when you fitted the rectifier?

Also check the main power leads to the solenoid and starter motor. Also check the heavy duty earth lead at the battery and frame connecting points.

[hairygit]

Chances are you disconnected the battery before changing the rectifier (I certainly hope you did!) and the battery terminals need cleaning/checking for tightness. Also, the battery could be low on charge, try taking it off and charging properly, then refit after cleaning the terminals of the battery and the cables.

[theof]

gtmdriver

Ahh good to know that the click is usually due to no / low current. I did 'disturb' the wires to the solenoid when I replaced the loom, but they now all seem like good connections. I will double check the earths as this seems a common cause. The ones I can see are

just under the seat latch (to loom)
on the main frame pivot (to battery)

another problem might be a fray cable on the battey (positive) lead, I've ordered a new part like this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1976-HONDA-CB750-FOUR-24-POSITIVE-BATTERY-CABLE-WIRE-LEAD-/201601616333?hash=item2ef06489cd:g:U~IAAOSwQYZWug2b

hairygit

battery is fully charged, terminals are clean and tight. since there is a good spark, i assumed that this confirms a good battery connection, but i might be wrong.

thank you both for the help here, i've gone from no idea where to start, to having some idea of what the parts do and the sequence for problem solving, much apreciated

[theof]

also, i managed to ride the bike around the block yesterday so i'm riding a wave of pride in taking the wreck to 'almost' roadworthy

[K2-K6]

You can jump across the two heavy duty terminals of the solenoid to bypass it's internal switching, with either a jump lead or screwdriver to make contact.
If it starts this way it tells you the rest of the system is ok and you've got to sort the solenoid or make sure you've enough battery oomph to activate it.

[theof]

K2-K6

great tip, thanks I'll give this a go and report back