CB750 Barn find project - First Timer

[Underdog1]

This is as far as I’m going to get this weekend.




Relatively happy I suppose, looking forward to getting the wheels on.

I’ve put some hagon shocks on which seem to be a really tight fit, the top of the shock is touching the frame.





These were supposed to be direct bolt on replacements

[Rob62]

Send the buggers back! 😄

Seriously, they won’t have been cheap. I bought some for 50 quid (not hagons) and they fit perfectly....

[Underdog1]

Send the buggers back! 😄

Seriously, they won’t have been cheap. I bought some for 50 quid (not hagons) and they fit perfectly....

the only problem is despite them being new out the box they have been sitting in my garage for 18 months!I bought them though ebay as well and they were about 35% cheaper..

Ive emailed Hagon anyway as it may be that they can provide a thicker collar thing that would push the whole assembly down slightly. If not ill have to make up some spacers so it won't be disastrous

[K2-K6]

With the bearing retainers,  are you using a grease or lubricant to install them?

Going back a bit to the tank,  the solvent I've remembered now is MEK which may get the coating to dissolve. It's used quite a bit in industry for cleaning and working with polymers in various compositions. Should be readily available.

[Underdog1]

With the bearing retainers,  are you using a grease or lubricant to install them?

Going back a bit to the tank,  the solvent I've remembered now is MEK which may get the coating to dissolve. It's used quite a bit in industry for cleaning and working with polymers in various compositions. Should be readily available.

Yeah I used a bit of lithium grease on them

[Underdog1]

Mine was just the same......it was an absolute pig to get it out.....you should have seen the 'Heath Robinson' affair I rigged up on my Workmate to remove the rear Bearing Retainer (I'd stripped the rim off it - so it was just the hub).

I bought new Bearing Retainers but they also proved tight to insert so I asked my local Machine Shop to 'ease' out the threads in the Hubs......which worked a treat......well worth £20 for both Hubs.

The way I looked at it was that I wouldn't like the next person who stripped a Bearing out to go through what I had to.

Just went to two machine shops, first place said they didn’t have the tooling to do it and the second wouldn’t turn a machine on for less than £50! Going To buy an oem one to see if it’s a better fit

[Underdog1]

Just checked and the retainer I can’t get in IS oem 
I think l might try getting it in the freezer and heating the hub up with a hair dryer

Buuut on a positive note hagon are sending me the correct spring retainers for free even though I didn’t buy direct from them!

[Underdog1]

Got a thread file on its way to try and sort this hub, retainer issue.

I need to wire up the new fuse box I’ve got to order some spade connectors,
What size spade terminals are used in the block connectors? I reckon it’s 4.8mm but I’m not at home this week to measure up

[Underdog1]

Got the new retainers from hagon this morning so that’s the shocks sorted


Also my thread file arrived so spend 10 mins chasing out the thread on the front hip and bearing retainer..

Et voila!



Well worth the investment of a few pound!

 Can do both internal and external threads

[Underdog1]

Doing my carbs today in the US cleaner. Managed to round out one of the little screws in the carb slide,rats.



Easy out didn’t work, is just mullering the head even more.

Tried a very small drill from underneath but had no luck, decided to stop and have a think as the internal threads will be very delicate



Suggestions appreciated!

[Rob62]

Small drill down the centre and a stud remover but will be tricky.... Or a more expensive but reliable method, take it to a wire eroding specialist.

[Underdog1]

Small drill down the centre and a stud remover but will be tricky.... Or a more expensive but reliable method, take it to a wire eroding specialist.

Bit more persistence and I got it out with an easyout. Someone’s been in these carbs before as the two little screws which hold the needle in are mismatched on a few of the carbs with some of them being chewed up. My parts fiche has these down as m3x10 but they seem to be 2.5mm in dia. Will see what B&Q stock and possible replace them all with zinc coated slotted heads machine screws.

I read somewhere about these being loctited or even Peened in..? Sort of makes sense but when I’m rebuilding is it safe to leave as is because I’m going to be adjusting needle positions etc

[Underdog1]

Got some new machine screws for the carbs, going to replace hem all with hex heads as no doubt I’ll be changing needle heights in the future a fair bit.

So last week I called the nearest radiator shop otoday me (hourish away) to ask what could be done about the fuel tank crud and he told me to bring It in. Drove all the way down only to be told he couldn’t do anything. Not quite sure what he was expecting to see as I explained in detail the situation, he took a quick look in with his torch and said three no access to clear the crap at the bottom out (obviously as it’s a fuel tank!). Said he had no solvents he could use as all the caustic soda stuff is outlawed. He suggested maybe blasting it.

Has anyone ever heard of the inside of tanks getting soda blasted? Obviously access would dictate only certain areas could be got at but I feel this is the last chance saloon for this tank. If I have no luck here I’ll have to look at getting another

[Bryanj]

If it is that bad cut the bottom out of the tank, clean it out and get a rad shop to weld the bottom back in, used to be done a lot to do tank repairs for insurance companies

[Underdog1]

If it is that bad cut the bottom out of the tank, clean it out and get a rad shop to weld the bottom back in, used to be done a lot to do tank repairs for insurance companies

Yeah think that’s got to be the next step, don’t particularly want to use the bloke at the rad shop I went to as he wasn’t very helpful. Super thin guage is outside my welding capabilities and should probably be tigged anyway so going  I have an ask about locally