Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
Underdog, have a look at the pics i uploaded in the newbies where I was doing what you are currently doing 10 months ago. I tried with oversize rear mudguard but was too big, in the end went with purchasing mangled front mudguard and cut to size, this way you have extra clearance and also easier to attach tabs to. One thing to muck up now is your seat fixings and more importantly access to fix your seat down either by bolts/wing nuts or hinged. Your right to stay away from welding shops unless they know what they are doing, due to hourly rates and finding a solution for you. Best to look on all forums and Google pics for ideas. If I could and roll back time is weld hinges to the frame and bolt that to my seat, but heyho. As trigger has said also, don't raise the rear end this will upset the geometries / effect steering and ride ability. Enjoy
I used a 40mm upswept hoop, made an extra frame support just where the hoop starts to upswept, basically 40mm wide 4mm thick flat bar and welding that in place inside of the rear end, but level to the top of frame. This enabled me to weld on a tab slightly upswept to fit the fender. With the fender cut I used the mudguard hoop that attaches to the mudguard and forks, cut to size and welded that to the underside of the seat hoop to act as more robust fixing point to install the mud guard as it has 2 small bolts and is already shaped to the mudguard. Will take a close up photo and post up this weekend. The picture will show more than I explain.
The tabs I welded in at the battery box are more as a guide for the seat bolts to stop it moving around while riding, the rear is where I attach the seat and bolt into place. The battery and tray do fit in but it's a tight fit, but works for me. Will take some pics for you whereby hopefully you will work out what works for your seat pan and mud guard. For some reason the front fender works for me, I was thinking what would fit in there as I needed something to give some protection from water spray and any flying debris from the tyre. I did think leaving open, but looks better filled with the fender, and attach the rear light also. If your building your own seat pan what do you intend to use for fixing in place?. If I could turn back time I would weld in m8 or m6 nuts to the top side of the pan and use bolts, or find place to have it hinged and lockable. I know for next time!!
Yeah I was going to go for welded m6 bolts on the top of the seat pan like you said. I'm not going to be working on the bike again for a while so will have a good think. May even re work the rear hoop with a steeper angle to give more clearance
Very nice handy work, and welcome back. You need to watch how you remove the vin plate, it's soft alloy plate, I think the rivets are brass?, it's also glued on the back. I just levered mine off with care, but it still split at the ends, but it's ok. Just stuck it back on using arodite.What's next fender?. Been off a while also, had to have a break away from the bike as it was doing my head in and started to hate it. But back on it now so get it finished.Good luck, if you have any Q's fire away.
On the VIN plate. Drill the rivets out first, then get some very thin metal wire and try and 'cut' the adhesive backing off behind the vin plate using the profile of the headstock to avoid damage to the vin plate...worked well for me (after I botched a K0 vin plate first time round duh...).
