Author Topic: Engine teardown and inspection  (Read 13170 times)

Online Bryanj

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #45 on: September 30, 2020, 02:59:17 PM »
I always swore by NP but they are difficult to get now, due to having a "stock" i havent used either of those mentioned so cant comment, Trigger would be one to ask

Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #46 on: September 30, 2020, 05:49:11 PM »
I will be Oddjob. Just on the list for upper part of engine

Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #47 on: October 06, 2020, 10:41:25 PM »
Two queries today please if anyone can help.

1. Am I right in assuming needle bearing is not supposed to look like this and there is meant to be some plastic holding the needles in ?




2. What is an easy way to remove and replace the bearing that sits under/next to the oil guides in the bottom case ?

« Last Edit: October 06, 2020, 11:31:02 PM by cantarauk »

Offline Trigger

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #48 on: October 06, 2020, 11:13:47 PM »
That is the way that the roller is, just a cage and pins. The over one is just pins.
You knock the bearing out from the other side, there is a cut away to do this.

Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #49 on: October 07, 2020, 08:27:38 PM »
Trigger when you say the other one do you mean No 24 from below




As this is what I have as a needle bearing inside No 24 which has plastic holding the pins in. If the other one was the same and the plastic has broken it would explain all the black bits I found in the case when I stripped it down



« Last Edit: October 07, 2020, 08:40:35 PM by cantarauk »

Online Bryanj

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #50 on: October 07, 2020, 11:41:50 PM »
They are different and the loose rollers one is correct where it is

Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #51 on: October 08, 2020, 08:57:39 AM »
Ok thanks Bryanj.

Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #52 on: October 13, 2020, 10:11:52 AM »
Part are coming in thick and fast and I am now just waiting on the primary chain before I can make a start at re-building.

Digging through all the bags of nuts, bolts and screws this is the one thing that I left until last and could delay the build start. The engine was originally painted assembled so all the fastening hardware is black with scuff marks so not very good in appearance.

So I believe options are to clean up and plate the ones I have or replace with new. If I chose the plating option could anyone suggest the best way to go about this and also any useful contacts who could do this for me.

Researching the replace with new option I believe at a Class 8.8 (grade 5) or class 10.9 (grade 8 ) should suffice. There are sites that offer hardware in these strengths but my question firstly is if this is a requirement for the stronger bolts or just BS.

If stronger is better then in the UK what would the best place be to get hold of SS Hex head bolts or 12PT as shown below - Also the places I found do break the bank so interested in best financially viable options

I do like the hex head with hollow on the head









« Last Edit: October 13, 2020, 03:22:52 PM by cantarauk »

Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #53 on: November 08, 2020, 05:54:04 PM »
Primary chain has arrived and in the meantime I have been cleaning parts so as to be ready to assemble.



What I was going to ask is what anti-seize compound so people use for the fastening hardware. There seems to be mixed reviews between copper and zinc/nickel based products with zin/nickel been the preferred option. Within the UK there do not  seem to be many option for the zinc/nickel compound so your advise/views would be appreciated.

Offline Laverda Dave

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #54 on: November 08, 2020, 07:52:20 PM »
You should replace the circlips if you have removed them from the gearshifts.
1976 Honda 400/4
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1978 Honda CB400/4 'Rat' bike
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Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #55 on: November 08, 2020, 09:37:55 PM »
On it. Clips, seals, o-ring, gaskets all news and ready






Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #56 on: November 10, 2020, 09:18:38 PM »
Most of the components required for the engine assemble have arrived so I will be making a start at building the motor. Since this is the first time I have undertaken such a task I will be taking it slow documenting everything.

The engine cases have been cleaned and sprayed and baked




Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #57 on: November 10, 2020, 09:37:50 PM »
There seem to be different ways to do this but I have opted to start with the top half of the case seated on a homemade made frame to keep it steady.

Gear shift and drum inserted first with each part well lubricated with assembly lube.



Looking at the top half of the case with the crackshaft to be positioned at the top. Drum lubricated and inserted from the left side of the case with the left gear shift fork assembled with the pin and circlip side facing the left.



Next gear shift fork B assembled with the pin hole and circlip side facing the right hand side of case.



The right gear shift fork assembled again with the pin hole and circlip facing the right



New oil seal inserted and the drum pushed completely in



« Last Edit: November 10, 2020, 09:43:33 PM by cantarauk »

Offline Nurse Julie

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #58 on: November 10, 2020, 10:34:52 PM »
Great work.
LINK TO MY EBAY PAGE. As many of you know already, I give 10% discount and do post at cost to forum members if you PM me direct.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/julies9731/m.html?item=165142672569&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562

LINK TO MY CB400/4 ENGINE STRIP / ASSESSMENT AND REBUILD...NOW COMPLETE
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,14049.msg112691/topicseen.html#new

Offline cantarauk

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Re: Engine teardown and inspection
« Reply #59 on: November 21, 2020, 06:24:59 PM »
Starter gear and shaft cleaned lubricated and installed with the M6 retaining hex bolt torqued down to 1.0 Kg-Meter











 

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