Frog Chorus - rivet! rivet!

[MrDavo]

I decided before I fit the exhausts back on my bike, that it would be a good time to fit the 530 gold X-Ring chain that I bought on the Bay. What I don't need is a debate on whether I should or not, I bought it a while ago, it's mine now.

I had to shorten it, using my Draper chain splitter, that went fine, it's now the right length to fit with plenty of adjustment left. When I went to find the split link that I thought it had - there wasn't one, just a link to be riveted up, with a small pack of grease and O rings.

I know Honda fitted a continuous chain, I also know lots of people run split links, as have I in the past, even on race bikes. However I am where I am with this, its time to buy a riveter. I don't want to buy a cheap and nasty one, that I might have to buy another, I also don't want to do a half arsed job that could cost me a set of cases.

Any recommendations or tips, particularly for a decent chain riveter that won't break the bank and cost more than the chain did?

[K2-K6]

I've never seen any problem using these chains on older bikes anyway as they just work much better.

I do rivet them by hand though. The links I've normally had are a light interference fit for the closing plate onto the rivet pins so that you can first assemble the link and then squeeze it into the same tolerance as the rest of the chain in regard to the pinching effect that sets the clearance for the o-rings.

I put the back plate flat on a metal block then use an engineers ball peen hammer to deform the rivet head into four "ears" the same as the other links.

Just done one on my bike,  they always have no problems like that and to change an old one I have to grind the rivet heads off to get them apart at the end of their life.

[MrDavo]

Ive tried that in situ before on a Triumph primary chain, against a hammer at the back of the chain, and it wasn't a huge success (ie it fell apart). I'd have to buy a ball peen hammer, someone borrowed mine decades ago. I'm sure I'd get better with practice, but I only get one shot at it, failure = disaster.

I was wondering whether something like this was worth buying, it's in effect a small screw up press.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AFAM-Easy-Riv-5-riveting-tool-for-Tubular-rivet-Chain-tool/251698635999

They are also available from a UK supplier without the wait and postage from Germany, but this listing had a nice demo video, if cringeworthy music. For someone not so confident bashing it closed I thought it might be worth a punt.

With this tool you can easily chain rivet all kinds of Hohlnietschlösser.

Enough said! What do you think?

[K2-K6]

I can't see the video but from the design it looks like you clamp it with the tool turned in one way first, then after that's spaced the plate to correct depth down the rivet you'd finish it by the spike end splaying the hollow end of the rivet? Looks like it'll do the job ok.

Yep didn't think how I do that in situ. I do them out on their own if I can and remove swingarm to install. I can quite understand a nervousness in trying to complete it with a hammer though if you're not so practiced. You'd really kick yourself if you shredded the cases after getting so far through all the bits you've been through with it.

Let us know what the tool's like to use if you get it.

[MrDavo]

Ordered it, I might not really need it, but I see it as spending insurance money.

I'll let you know how it works out.

[Trigger]

The master link needs to be hollow on the ends, do you have this type ?

[MrDavo]

Yes, but I did just have to nip in the garage and check!

I note that the parts book lists both split link and rivet links for the OEM chain, it seems to depend on what make you got. The sprockets are original 18/48, with the ring fitted to stop the chain getting fouled up in the spindle.

It was a few links too long, luckily I did have a decent splitter in my toolbox.

[K2-K6]

Regarding your original posting,  I think these sealed chains are alot better than the old type, I know it may trouble some people about originality but I'd always run new type if it's an option.

The riveter,  it's worth using something like coppaslip on both the former threads and the interface with the rivet to help get a clean fold over of material, if that makes sense.

[Trigger]

Found a half decent vid on how to do >>>  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygJZuzjvIMY

[MrDavo]

Thanks for the info, I'd not thought of Coppaslip, but I'll use it now.

Does anyone here use the stock CB750 oiler from the centre of the sprocket? It is fitted to mine, I put it back but left the adjuster tightened right up so no oil comes out. I reckoned I'd rather be in control of how lubed my chain is.

[K2-K6]

Using lubrication when forming metal in that way is something I use for brake pipe flaring as it makes really nicely finished joints that don't take too much torque in getting them to roll over.

I've always run that oil facility closed on these bikes.

Don't know what your preferred chainlube is but for along time I've used Cal-gard Chain-kote. I started using it on bikes but also from my experience with it being so good I used it at work on machines we had with 50ft drive chains. They were driven by a big electric motor and had an ammeter in the supply circuit. We had to routinely time the machine process and adjust motor supply voltage to get correct timing, this chain lube virtually eliminated variance from chain friction and they always ran at lowered amperage with this stuff on the chain. The chains also lasted in excess of ten times compered to previous methods.

They do both a black one which I've used and the clear one which I've no experience of. It's really sticky when dry so I use it when getting home so it has time to dry out and you get very little fling off like that.

Advantage of using it at work was that we held stock of it. happy days.