Adjusting the clutch

[MrDavo]

After the engine rebuild (see another thread) I took the bike out for a short, if illegal, test ride today to check all is well before it goes for an MOT, I did 3 miles pootling about very locally without drama, but I haven't got the clutch right. It was fine while riding, though the bite point was very near the 'let go' position, however when I got home I couldn't change gear easily while stationary with the clutch in, and neutral was very hard to find, like on a Triumph.

I can get all the gears easily when the engine isn't running, so I don't think its a gearbox or selector problem.

Not a great scan, but have a read of the owner's manual and tell me what you think.



I'm fairly sure they mixed up clockwise and anti clockwise, didn't they? Can anyone link me to a better source, tell me how they've always done it, or come up with a link to a service bulletin? Surprisingly, Hondaman's CB750 book doesn't seem to tell me anything about clutch setup, other than how to dismantle and assemble it.

Assuming I did adjust it right (and it worked fine before, after I put new plates in) then I think I need to take the inner cover off, and check the pressure plate is moving evenly. To be honest, I didn't touch the clutch at all during the rebuild, just left it alone where it was, undisturbed on the shaft.

[Trigger]

Sounds like a early CB750 clutch

[K2-K6]

As you suggest, it looks like the handbook is back to front in regard to the clockwise / counterclockwise instructions.

I've got a genuine workshop manual that says the opposite to that which appears to confirm your suspicion.

I do them in the following way; disconnect the cable at clutch end,  undo locknut, turn adjust screw in gently until it meets resistance (it should now be touching the clutch lift mechanism internally now with no slack) then back it out counterclockwise by quarter to half turn to give a working clearance, then lock it off. Re-install the cable and adjust to give the lever slack you want and it should be ok.

The operating arm should remain in the same position with or without the cable installed else the lever can hold the clutch close to slipping.

[MrDavo]

I do them in the following way; disconnect the cable at clutch end,  undo locknut, turn adjust screw in gently until it meets resistance (it should now be touching the clutch lift mechanism internally now with no slack) then back it out counterclockwise by quarter to half turn to give a working clearance, then lock it off. Re-install the cable and adjust to give the lever slack you want and it should be ok.

The operating arm should remain in the same position with or without the cable installed else the lever can hold the clutch close to slipping.

I could post that in a Classic Brit racer forum and noone would guess, until Google grasses  me up.... 

Meanwhile, after 88 miles, it's fine, if a bit clunky the first time it goes in gear when cold, and the bite point is very near the top. Otherwise good, no gear selection dramas, but neutral is a bit Russian roulette at the lights, I'm getting better at slipping it into neutral as I coast up to them, though. Everyone on here seems to say 'they all do that', which is what dealers always said when you took bikes back when they were new.

[Trigger]

The clunk of the gear box is the characteristic of the CB750K 

[MarkCR750]

The clunk of the gear box is the characteristic of the CB750K 

Yes Trigger, I believe it is called "character" 😄

(PS the "honda man clutch mods helps).

[Greebo]

I do them in the following way; disconnect the cable at clutch end,  undo locknut, turn adjust screw in gently until it meets resistance (it should now be touching the clutch lift mechanism internally now with no slack) then back it out counterclockwise by quarter to half turn to give a working clearance, then lock it off. Re-install the cable and adjust to give the lever slack you want and it should be ok.

The operating arm should remain in the same position with or without the cable installed else the lever can hold the clutch close to slipping.

I could post that in a Classic Brit racer forum and noone would guess, until Google grasses  me up.... 

Meanwhile, after 88 miles, it's fine, if a bit clunky the first time it goes in gear when cold, and the bite point is very near the top. Otherwise good, no gear selection dramas, but neutral is a bit Russian roulette at the lights, I'm getting better at slipping it into neutral as I coast up to them, though. Everyone on here seems to say 'they all do that', which is what dealers always said when you took bikes back when they were new.

                                        *********************
Yes it seems that all CB750's have a bit of a clunk click when selecting 1st gear from cold, my new clutch was fitted in 2014 & the travel when setting off is very near the end which you usually get with a worn clutch that's ready for replacing, I did at first have trouble selecting neutral...check your neutral switch it could be that, I also had that replaced & Bingo sorted .

[Spitfire]

Sounds just like my F1 clutch, I too am pretty good at finding neutral when coasting to the traffic lights !

Cheers

Dennis