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I do them in the following way; disconnect the cable at clutch end, undo locknut, turn adjust screw in gently until it meets resistance (it should now be touching the clutch lift mechanism internally now with no slack) then back it out counterclockwise by quarter to half turn to give a working clearance, then lock it off. Re-install the cable and adjust to give the lever slack you want and it should be ok. The operating arm should remain in the same position with or without the cable installed else the lever can hold the clutch close to slipping.
The clunk of the gear box is the characteristic of the CB750K
Quote from: K2-K6 on February 13, 2017, 08:31:32 PMI do them in the following way; disconnect the cable at clutch end, undo locknut, turn adjust screw in gently until it meets resistance (it should now be touching the clutch lift mechanism internally now with no slack) then back it out counterclockwise by quarter to half turn to give a working clearance, then lock it off. Re-install the cable and adjust to give the lever slack you want and it should be ok. The operating arm should remain in the same position with or without the cable installed else the lever can hold the clutch close to slipping.I could post that in a Classic Brit racer forum and noone would guess, until Google grasses me up.... Meanwhile, after 88 miles, it's fine, if a bit clunky the first time it goes in gear when cold, and the bite point is very near the top. Otherwise good, no gear selection dramas, but neutral is a bit Russian roulette at the lights, I'm getting better at slipping it into neutral as I coast up to them, though. Everyone on here seems to say 'they all do that', which is what dealers always said when you took bikes back when they were new.