Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
Really appreciate reading all this stuff K2-K6 . Just was this section was created for. Like 'Jensen' who I mentioned, you may not get a flurry of responses as the info takes a bit of absorbing, understanding and reading around. But it's here as a great reference and easily accessible outside of the 'day-day' forum posts.In the early 70's I had a Honda CD175A sloper. The local Honda dealer 'Ken Blakey' who had been a dealer since early doors waxed on about using 'Filtrate' oil in Honda's (dark grey because it has molybdenum disulphide in it). So, at great expense, I replaced the 175 oil with Filtrate oil but at the next oil change I cleaned the centrifugal filter housing and was shocked to find so much black stuff in the housing that there was only a pencil size hole down the centre. So what was all that about? Does anyone else have experiences with Filtrate oil (it came from Leeds)?
I'm not getting in to the debate about zinc in oil as I know diddly squat but, fully synthetic oil on a wet clutch system does lead to clutch slip, especially on CB400/4's . For this reason I use semi synthetic in all my engines, once run in if rebuilt (mineral for the first 500 miles). I still think the best we can do for these old girls is change the oil regularly.
Agree, running in oil is a waste of money. Disagree about running an engine in in a regimented way. It does depend on the work carried out on the engine of course and what parts have been replaced. The more machine work carried out and the more new parts fitted, the more regimented the running in process. I only ever run in old bike engines, newly rebuilt or overhauled, properly. Modern day bikes and cars its up though the gearbox once and back down again, as far as I'm concerned, it's then run in 😀😀