Another timing question!!

[deltarider]

From what you've posted here, I suspect the described sloppiness in the platescrews and holes. But once the plate is of, the advancer is easily removed and checked. And thanks to that pin at the back of it, you can't go wrong putting it back. So, why not have a look at it? In theory the grease under the cam can have become so hardened, that it is hindering the full movement needed to advance completely.

[Wenman]

Update....
So I managed to get a OEM ignition plate in good working order off eBay and it came with an advancer unit too! It looks in better condition to mine although the springs feel the same tension wise??
I thought what the hell and went to fit it... with the locating lug on the back in place the unit seems to have a lot of play in it? Is this correct? My original seemed to stick quite firmly in place which is odd. Once the plate is on and the bolt winched up it's obviously not moving? I know it's a rotating part and was wonderingi if I should be getting a degree of play or not??

All help appreciated

Al

[Ashdowner]

Or alternatively to all that you could buy electronic ignition like Boyer which gets rid of the points and the manual advance and never have to worry about it again. Just a thought.

[Bryanj]

It has been disused on the US forum that the hole for the peg in the crank can wear oval by people turning the engine with the big nut and/or the unit not being tight. The crank is not hardened at that point so it is feasible to drill out the hole larger and fit a small bush to take out the play.

If leaving it as is it would be advisable to set tdc on 1 & 4 with a stop in the plug then make sure the T mark is aligned before tightening the bolt