CB400/4 ENGINE STRIP, ASSESSMENT AND REBUILD BY JULIE - NOW COMPLETE

[Trigger]

Looking good Julie.
Word of warning for you about UPS delivering your CMS parts, you have to home when they deliver as CMS insist on your specific signature. They will not deliver to a neighbour even if you ask them to. After three failed attempts at delivery you have to collect them from the UPS depot.
Don't ask me how I know this  !

There is a good legal argument if a delivery company do not deliver.
1) You paid for delivery to the stated address.
2) They did not inform you of a delivery time or date,
3) Send a invoice for your time and fuel costs if you had to collect or a invoice if you sent a courier to collect.

My UPS delivery guy has learnt to try the house first and if no one in, then bang on the workshop door as it is on the property as the delivery address 

[andut]

Looking good Julie - glad I'm not the only one who gets confused with cylinder order when the crankcases are upside down - always a good idea to label parts when disassembling as you have done and then double / triple check on reassembly !

Won't be long before you fire it up and enjoy the moment of triumph...........  followed by a few hundred miles of needlessly worrying about every noise and vibration (or is that just me ?)

Good luck with the rest of the build !

Andy

[GiannisFour]

Nice work Julie, keep us posted!
Next winter will be my turn with my 400 

[Nurse Julie]

Bloody helll Ken, I have enough trouble focusing and concentrating on this rebuild without the aid of potato vodka !!!. Tea and coffee will do just fine.....until I have finished the rebuild anyway ☺☺☺☺☺

[hondarc166]

looking good Julie 

[Nurse Julie]

Re assembled the gearbox this morning, installed the kickstart mechanism and started changing the rubber dampers on the primary drive. Fitted crankshaft and primary and cam chain.

Started off by installing the drum assembly.The gear box dogs, or forks, go on the shift fork guide shaft. The dogs are marked L,C and R to identify which one goes where. The shaft is then secured externally with a lock washer and a set plate.

When installing the gearshift drum and gears it has to be done in the neutral position. The photo shows through to a brass (I think it's brass) point where the neutral switch would make contact, seeing this denotes that the gears are in the neutral position.

The main shaft and counter shaft can then be installed making sure the dogs all locate where they should be. Before installing, I took the 2 needle bearings apart and packed them with grease and greased everything else that moved.

The drum assembly in situ.
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The gearbox dogs on the shaft. This pic also shows the half rings in situ and guide pins for the bearings on the main shaft and counter shaft

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The shaft secured externally with the lock washer and set plate

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The small brass? point showing the drum in the neutral position

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All assembled with new oil seals and bearing guard applied to bearing surfaces.

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Before I actually join the crank cases together, I will put a smear of Hondabond on the oil seals on the main and counter shafts.

I found this quite difficult this morning and I did have to get Trigger to explain and help me. I just could not understand how all the cogs moved on the 2 shafts and meshed together. I understood the fundamentals of the drum and dogs but it wasn't until it was assembled and he was going from 1st, through neutral and up to 6th gear that I could understand it as I could see it working in front of me. Anyway, it all seems to be meshing together very easily and nice and smooth. I could do it myself now, having been shown the workings, it makes sense.

[Nurse Julie]

I also installed the kick start mechanism.

The pics show it in place and also show the hairpin on the spring in the crank case stopper grove and the other end of the spring attached to the crankcase rib.

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On the primary shaft, I have taken the primary driven sprocket apart to fit the 8 new rubber dampers. You can see the internal workings of the sprocket and how the dampers fit in. The dampers in the picture are in fact some of the old ones.

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[Nurse Julie]

Finally, I fitted the primary chain and cam chain to the crank and installed with new oil seals on the ends of the crank shaft.
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[Johnwebley]

looking very good.

  can I ask why you use grease ,when engine oil will lubricate the needle bearing in usage ??

help educate a simple bloke

[Nurse Julie]

I have just asked Trig and he says the grease will allow the bearing to move freely before any oil gets there. He says all moving surfaces should be coated with something. It was more of a smear than packed out actually, I was over exaggerating 😁😁😁

[paul G]

All looking good Julie, keep the pictures coming 

[Bryanj]

I always use grease, frequently coppaslip as if you use oil then don't run the engine for a while it dries out

[mike the bike]

I used that black grease stuff in a yellow tube, can't think what it's called.   It's used specifically for newly built engines.

[Laverda Dave]

Looking really good Julie.  That's a nice clean workshop. Great to see photos of a rebuild.
Mike, I think the assembly grease is Graphogen, 27 pounds for a large tube that will last for years!

[Nurse Julie]

Looking really good Julie.  That's a nice clean workshop. Great to see photos of a rebuild.
Mike, I think the assembly grease is Graphogen, 27 pounds for a large tube that will last for years!

The engine building room is cleaner than an operating theatre !!. Its that clean I am only allowed in there with Tea in a clean mug, I'm not allowed to use the same mug twice 
Graphogen, so I have been informed recently should only be used on new metal surfaces, to help them bed in. (I think that's what he said, I probably wasn't listening properly......again  )