Author Topic: CB750 F1 Clutch Slip/Gone  (Read 591 times)

Offline Coppertop1234

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CB750 F1 Clutch Slip/Gone
« on: November 12, 2017, 04:56:56 PM »
Just had a fantastic ride out at Squires remembrance ride 2017 with Son & his wife
Keith Jnr on his cb750 f1 and me on mine,Keiths wife on her BMW F650

Unfortunatley Keith jnrs carbs were eratic causing a few issues along they way
When we got to the end of the ride my clutch started to slip and it wasnt adjustment not bad i suppose 29k on clock and 40 years wear if its original to bike
Nice trip home riding without clutch and trying to keep revs down on hills.

Not changed a bike clutch before But have the special tool from when i did the springs 18 months ago.

New plates soon to be onorder from DS any tips?
« Last Edit: November 12, 2017, 08:07:49 PM by Coppertop1234 »
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Offline Coppertop1234

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Re: CB750 F1 Clutch Slip/Gone
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2017, 08:27:18 PM »
Just watched video on clutch exchange and it looks straight forward enough.

Cheers

Keith Snr
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Offline K2-K6

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Re: CB750 F1 Clutch Slip/Gone
« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2017, 09:07:57 PM »
I don't feel you'd have too much trouble as they are fairly logical to strip and build up again.

Has the bike many miles originally?  It's worth checking the engagement areas for the clutch tabs to make sure they can release and clamp easily without any significant notching to prevent smooth movement.

I'd clean and use a silicone grease on the actuation helix as well to make surely it's got the smoothest operation.

Hope it all goes well.

Offline Coppertop1234

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Re: CB750 F1 Clutch Slip/Gone
« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2017, 03:11:29 PM »
All fitted and working just a bit of adjustment to do

It was a straight forward enough exchange 

The bike had 29k on before the clutch went so i think thats reasonable for a 40 year old bike
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Offline K2-K6

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Re: CB750 F1 Clutch Slip/Gone
« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2017, 03:32:46 PM »
Good to hear it didn't give you any problems.

Something to add if you are not aware. With the clutch cable not attached at engine end, then adjustment should allow the operating arm to move back with the spring so that it doesn't leave it touching the thrust mech inside.

If you try to move it with your fingers,  you should be able to move it maybe 5 degrees or so before it contacts the internal mech. If this slack is not there,  then as it heats up in use it can start to open the clutch and cause it to slip. This should be set prior to cable being connected,  then the cable should be adjusted to preserve this movement also.

Hopefully you may get some good weather to get out on it.

 

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