Author Topic: Soldering Cable Nipples  (Read 673 times)

Offline Yamahawk

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #15 on: December 06, 2017, 02:47:59 AM »
+1 more, but its bloody expensive >:(
Yeah, silver solder ain't cheap, the price of precious metals being what it is today...
Hehe what about Maxwell's silver hammer?  :D I bet that's a pretty penny too!
Charlie

Offline Jore

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #16 on: December 07, 2017, 01:38:33 AM »
I've used regular solder for sweating pipes on the clutch of my bike without issues, I first make a mold with wood and drill a breather hole on the side, I melt some flux in to it and then add the  cable prior to the melted solder.

Offline philward

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #17 on: February 02, 2018, 04:02:26 PM »
Just wanted to post a recommend for cable making service. Earlier in the post a few members commented at the price of Venhills cable making. (and I agree based on the cost of them making me a back brake cable for my CR Rep). I have just used Cabletec of Sutton in Ashfield and they have minimum labour costs that are a tenner and the service and quality is excellent
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Offline moorey

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #18 on: February 02, 2018, 09:05:53 PM »
Whilst silver soldering may look like it does a better job and run better, it does have more wettability, invariably what will happen is the cable will be overheated with the torch altering the structure of the cable and weakening it making it more likely to break just as it comes out of the nipple. Steel ropes and wire cables should not be taken to temps above 350C. You do not need to use such high temps if using soft solder or white metal.
If you heat the cable until it reaches only blue in colour it will already be at approx 300C . Dark Grey and heading to Black and you are over 425C. Use as little heat as possible but ensure a good flow of solder.
Splay the cable end ensure it is grease free and add little flux. As always with soldering cleanliness is next to godliness.

Offline philward

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #19 on: February 02, 2018, 11:03:49 PM »
Moorey, that is exactly what happened when I tried it with silver solder! As a result I sent it to Cabletec
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Offline paul G

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #20 on: February 02, 2018, 11:40:14 PM »
It's quite simple if you use a solder pot and bog standard plumbing flux.
You do need to try and create the birds cage or something similar.
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Offline moorey

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #21 on: February 03, 2018, 08:02:21 AM »
It's quite simple if you use a solder pot and bog standard plumbing flux.
You do need to try and create the birds cage or something similar.

What do you mean by birds cage.

Offline paul G

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #22 on: February 03, 2018, 08:16:56 AM »
It's quite simple if you use a solder pot and bog standard plumbing flux.
You do need to try and create the birds cage or something similar.

What do you mean by birds cage.
Have a quick look on Venhill's web site and it shows you.
Just some way of splaying out the cable.
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Offline moorey

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #23 on: February 03, 2018, 10:17:20 AM »
I have had a look and can see why they would use that tool in a production environment, but it is perfectly good enough to splay out the end of the cable.
Many moons ago I was taught about wire ropes and cables at British Ropes Wakefield, back then British ropes were a massive company. Anyway contrary to what people think, there is actually very little or no tinning happens between the wire and the solder. The joint relies on friction for the wire not to pull out of the nipple, not a bond between solder and wire. The solder flows between the cleaned wires and as it cools it contracts and grips the wires. The contraction of the solder  on solidifying and cooling to atmospheric temperature produces compressional forces sufficient to develop a frictional resistance of the order of 700 lb. per square inch of wire surface. This is on a straight wire. Slightly bending or curving the wires will increase this frictional force by up to 3 times.
This is why Silver Soldering is not advisable. Things just get too hot and damage the cable even though it does look to have done a better job.
May be of interest to some .
Funny how some things just stick with you. The destruction testing of big ropes was impressive. :)

Offline Tomb

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #24 on: February 03, 2018, 12:30:55 PM »
Its a similar idea to the lead/wire security tags I use for Pressure Relief Valve work. The lead is crimped onto braided wire using a hand tool and is tough to shift. The bunching up or splaying of motorcycle cable ends assists the solder gripping.
Tom
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Offline Nurse Julie

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #25 on: February 03, 2018, 12:44:58 PM »
My Dad taught me how to solder nipples for my old Brit bikes. Originally he showed me how to splay the ends, heat it all up on the gas stove (whilst Mum wasn't looking) and then hold the solder on the end until it melted. Eventually he trusted me with the soldering iron (and the GPO issue solder and flux !!!) and I have never had one I have done myself fail.
Im a Nurse, trust me, this won't hurt.....much !!!

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Offline moorey

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #26 on: February 03, 2018, 03:19:49 PM »
Not exactly a clutch cable but the largest one I have done was the ends on a 36mm diiameter rope 5 miles long weighing 44 tons for a mine in South Africa.

Offline rozabikes

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #27 on: February 03, 2018, 05:21:27 PM »
Not exactly a clutch cable but the largest one I have done was the ends on a 36mm diiameter rope 5 miles long weighing 44 tons for a mine in South Africa.
That's just showing off! ;)
One day I'll have the time to restore it, not just talk and dream....

Offline moorey

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Re: Soldering Cable Nipples
« Reply #28 on: February 03, 2018, 05:36:59 PM »
All in the past. I wouldn't want to play with that stuff these days, its just too dam heavy. Clutch cables are plenty big enough.  ;)