ignition timing 0n 550 four k3

[deltarider]

Did you start with adjusting the breakerpointsgap? The gap usually determines the range. If I set the gap to 0,3 mm I have less range than when set at 0,4 mm. That's why I recommend to set them at 0,4 mm. Also to be on the safe side as overtime pointsgap uses to become smaller anyway. Did you use OEM or aftermarket parts?

[Bryanj]

Also when you move the plates the gap usually alters so it takes some fiddling to get both gap and timing correct at same time, gap should be 0.35 or 14 thou (the one that is not in cheap sets)

[bigmockuk]

"Deltarider" ye i started with points gap,i usually set it with a 14 thou sliding fit but where a 16 could not enter.1/4 points is oem it has 1/4 stamped on it but 2/3 points do not so think they could be aftermerket,i know i had to file a mm off the heel as it was way outside the gap range and opening too early. " Bryan j" i actually didnt take into account the gap might change i took it gap would stay the same.i actually bought these annoying feelers that give both imperial/metric and theres like a hundred you`ll never use lol im old school and prefer single imperial as in thou as opposed to metric.had it running today and it was acceptable apart from no3 backfire.im gonna order plugs without the "r" and see how that goes.also toying with the idea of running a second earth wire straight to engine as original runs to a bracket that mounts to the frame,the same bracket that holds the rear brake switch.peace of mind really.

[Ashdowner]

Put the Boyer back on. I had it on a previous bike and it was superb. Prob going to get it for my current bike.

[bigmockuk]

well no3 has acted the same way with new coils,caps,plugs and now points so boyer must have been ok after all? am toying with fitting  the electronic ignition plate from DS,anyone tried it?

[jon stead]

See below my number 3 downpipe bend.

Inner pipe was collapsed with no visible indication from outside. Exhaust gas couldn’t get out. Power seriously down and number 3 spark plug constantly sooty.

[K2-K6]

I was thinking that yesterday Jon.

Eerily similar to your own experience. That'd be quite something, odds wise, if two of the same turned up!

Worth a check with a look down the pipe to verify.

[bigmockuk]

wow who would have thought of that happening? could that be seen from the top of the pipe ? am stunned that could happen at all !

[jon stead]

It could be seen from the top of the pipe if you used a flashlight, but just try feeding a stiffish wire down. Couldn’t get anything passed my bend.

[bigmockuk]

pretty sure mine is clear tho as plenty of compression blowing thru but its certainly one to look out for!

[jon stead]

pretty sure mine is clear tho as plenty of compression blowing thru but its certainly one to look out for!

I thought that. Could feel the exhaust coming out of all four exhaust pipes. Engine ran great on idle and low revs driving through traffic. Open the throttle and it would bog down, struggling as the engine came under load. A check of the plugs would show number 3 had sooted up. Tried everything, carburation, coils, ignition, leads, caps, plugs, compression. Eventually decided to stick a boriscope down the exhaust pipes, from the engine end. Couldn’t get it more than two inches in to number 3 downpipe. Looked down it with a flashlight and saw a blockage. Still didn’t know what was causing the blockage but tried shifting it with a screwdriver and it was solid. Bought a second hand silencer from eBay, fitted it, bike performance transformed.

It’s worth a check for the half hour it would take you to get the right hand side exhausts off, check them and put them back on.

[bigmockuk]

so it can tick over with pressure still coming out but the harder the engine works the fault can show up,im gonna fit new exhausts gaskets again shortly so will certainly try passing a hose down each one for peace of mind! i take it the exhausts must be double lined and the inner liner has broken thru and warpped under heat? my no3 heats up and runs with choke on but cools down when choke is off then sits there with a slight cough/splutter.must admit tho no2 cools down a little when choke goes off but seems to run fine.1 and 4 stay warm throughout and even running.im sure i`ll get it ironed out if i treat each cylinder independently working thru ignition/fuel systems.these carbs were the worst ive ever seen due the bike being in dry storage for over 25yr,every passageway/jet was heavily blocked and took weeks to clean out,interestingly enough as i write this,the brass pipe on no 3 carb was blowing bubbles of fuel with float height at 14.5 so reset them all at 15.5 and it appeared to cure this.picture below shows pipe end filled with fuel which i understand should be an air passageway into the emulsion tube?