Author Topic: Spark erosion  (Read 1055 times)

Online K2-K6

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Re: Spark erosion
« Reply #15 on: December 29, 2017, 11:35:31 AM »
As you say royhall,  it's going to be high carbon to make it heat treatable. In that though you've got the method to change material hardness.

To harden steel you heat to red then fast quench in water or slightly more controlled with oil.

To go the other way,  you heat to red and cool as slowly as possible to anneal.

So if for example you used something like that spot welder I've posted above it will heat the whole pin probably to cherry Red without much heat being put into the surrounding component. Then leave to cool naturally before trying to get a slide hammer effect to withdraw it. You'd have been able to insulate that post weld process inuthis past with asbestos blanket, but we're not allowed such dangerous materials now!
You get a more competent tension/impact resistant joint by using the rod material as the conductor,  that's why they do it like that in body shops.
If the joint comes apart,  then it'll most likely be soft enough just to drill it as it'll have been annealed during the process.

Offline Laverda Dave

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Re: Spark erosion
« Reply #16 on: December 29, 2017, 02:04:53 PM »
Thanks to 70'sHonda I had a chat with Pete Lovell this morning and he agreed to spark erode the dowl out for me in a couple of weeks time when he comes back from holiday. I'd almost given up finding anyone who could do this work, its all mass production, big money items these days.
Thank you to everybody for all the advice. As always, this is a great forum to belong to  :)
1976 Honda 400/4
1977 Rickman Honda CR750
1999 Honda VFR 800FX
1955 750 Dresda Triton
1978 Moto Morini 350 Sport
1978 Honda CB400/4 'Rat' bike
1982 Laverda 120 Jota

 

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