Dyna-S ignition system (now cam end float thread)

[royhall]

Has anybody any experience with the Dyna-S system. In this case it's for a Suzuki GS1000 not a Honda but looking at the instructions they are all the same. I have been trying to get the timing right with new pattern points but it just will not time correctly across both sides. It's probably crap points causing the trouble but I am not going to pay £33 a side for genuine Suzuki so I think it's time to change to electronic. Just wanted to know what the best system for GS1000 was before I spend the hard earned. Cheers.

[JamesH]

Roy I have a ’79 GS1000 that came with a Dyna ignition fitted (std coils I think). Runs very nicely indeed...

[royhall]

Cheers James I think I will go for it. Does your GS have any of the "cam end float knock" issues at idle. Problems not there when the engines cold and goes away above 1800 rpm. I'm told by a few people it's normal and harmless. But I don't like it and am searching for a cure if you know anything about it. Cheers..

[kevski]

Hi Roy, i have the Dyna-s on my 78 Z1000 and i can highly recommend them, the cam end float knock is fine, my thou has it, not as bad as when i first got it as i changed a cam cap that had less wear laterally, it is just a characteristic  foible of them, a friend of mine has had his Wes Cooley rep from new and has been accustomed to the tick for many years.

[royhall]

That's good to know, thanks Kev.

[mike the bike]

Fitted one on my 400four.   I can recommend it as it has improved starting and going up a steep hill by me.
Also,there's no need to fit an extra ignition unit somewhere.
A tip though is to threadlock the pickup coils securely as I had one work loose.

[royhall]

Going back to the previous post about the Suzuki cam end float problem, I found this online. Very interesting write up. I may give it a go if the knock proves too much to live with. Hope it's of use to someone else as well.

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[K2-K6]

Seems quite a detailed explanation Roy,  advanced fettling to get the clearance needed. Interesting the bit about two of the cam lobes being off centre to the cam buckets, guess it's trying to move the cam in an arc as the lobe attempts to rotate the follower bucket resulting in duress on the thrust faces.

You get something similar on V8 Rover engines. The cams are ground with a scew on the lobes to intentionally rotate the follower and distribute wear evenly, this pushes the cam into moving. http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=638 as link they put a ptfe button into front of cam to stop it "walking" back and forth.

[kevski]

Another thing that can give the tick is the cam chain guide rollers, these have also been known to go from side to side creating the noise.

[royhall]

This sound is a very pronounced knock. As per description it only does it at tickover engine hot, then disappears at 2k revs. Does it every few seconds. Am leaving it for now as it's normal will see how it progresses. The write up was done on a GS850 so the cam offset may be different on the 1000.

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[royhall]

Just been recommended to change my engine oil on the Suzuki GS1000 from standard 10W-40 (diesel) to HDEO 15W-40. I'm told it stops the cam shaft end float issue. Anybody know what this oil is and where to get it, and is it okay with the clutch and gearbox. Cheers.

[K2-K6]

I think it's a term (heavy duty engine oil) HDEO  used collectively for petrol derived light diesel engines, in other words car and light commercial diesels.

Bigger commercial stuff had specific oils that didn't match usage in much smaller engines as they came more into general car use. So petrol type oils where effectively modified to cope with extra loading. Making HDEO categorised oils. So looks like you are already there in my view.

Curiously,  after reading your thrust mod post the other day,  I was thinking if there could be any benefits to using a very specific oil type to help out.

Do you know what properties the person recommending to you is after?  Or is it just a general feeling of more protection?

[royhall]

Just general advice from the old guy that does my bike MOT's. He's been in the trade 50+ years and reckons changing to the 15W-40 calms down the Suzuki cam issue. He was talking about "heavy duty truck oil" whatever that means. I can understand the switch to a slightly heavier grade oil making things less noisy and it's within Suzuki's recommended grades ie 10W-40 to 20W-50. But never heard the term HDEO before, and cant seem to find any for sale. Maybe I should ask him where he gets it from. Got to be worth a try if I can find some.

[kevski]

To be honest it would depend on how much lateral movement you already have, a heavier oil may just mask the problem and increased wear, if i had a one of the Suzukis i would do the modification, on my big zed the thrust surfaces are in the insides of the caps unlike the Suzuki which has them on the outside, i have to put up with mine, you however are a little more fortunate and can do more about it if need be.
A lot of truck oils now are model specific, some of these tips from the older fitters are not always best, sawdust in the gearboxes was always a favourite of the old boys.

[K2-K6]

This one has very specific blend for highly loaded camshaft applications VW 505.01

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5W40-FULLY-SYNTHETIC-DIESEL-PD-ENGINE-MOTOR-OIL-5-LITRE-VW-AUDI-SEAT-505-01-/262014414928

Original spec for these motors stops at the lower end of 10w as mineral oils weren't generally available to get lower than that. This should exceed anything made then in most areas.