Author Topic: 1978 CB550 Electricals  (Read 885 times)

Offline cb550k-aaron

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #15 on: October 09, 2018, 09:31:24 PM »
I tried the screwdriver trick and it turned over the starter  ;)

Offline BigAl

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #16 on: October 09, 2018, 10:04:27 PM »
As you have a 12v+ supply at the  solenoid (Yellow/red wire) from the starter button, you will also need a neutral switch or clutch switch to complete the circuit.
Do you have a wiring diagram for the F model?...the earlier CB550 K0,K1 does not apply
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Offline cb550k-aaron

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #17 on: October 09, 2018, 10:11:09 PM »
As you have a 12v+ supply at the  solenoid (Yellow/red wire) from the starter button, you will also need a neutral switch or clutch switch to complete the circuit.
Do you have a wiring diagram for the F model?...the earlier CB550 K0,K1 does not apply

I do in my Manual yes. Is there no way I can bypass? I'd like a neutral switch tbh but I can't get my hands on the Metal part that goes into the Left side casing, I have the cam though

Offline Bryanj

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #18 on: October 10, 2018, 01:14:40 AM »
As a temporary job until you get a neutral switch find rhe wires in the headlamp shell that would go to the clutch lever switch and join them together

Offline cb550k-aaron

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #19 on: October 10, 2018, 12:14:59 PM »
As a temporary job until you get a neutral switch find rhe wires in the headlamp shell that would go to the clutch lever switch and join them together

Do you have Neutral switches? I was informed by another member you possibly had?

Offline Bryanj

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #20 on: October 10, 2018, 03:40:32 PM »
Only 500/550 ones mate so yes. I only sell them as pairs with rotor and they cost me a lot to import so it comes out at £30 posted to you. If you want one PM me youre details
« Last Edit: October 10, 2018, 03:44:49 PM by Bryanj »

Offline cb550k-aaron

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #21 on: October 10, 2018, 06:58:29 PM »
Only 500/550 ones mate so yes. I only sell them as pairs with rotor and they cost me a lot to import so it comes out at £30 posted to you. If you want one PM me youre details

Perfect!! I messaged you there. Pairs is 100%

Offline cb550k-aaron

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #22 on: October 12, 2018, 11:05:14 PM »
Just wanted to say, big thanks again to everyone on the forum especially @Bryanj, he posted out the Neutral Switch yesterday it came today!!

In and all and we're flying now, neutral indicator and starter both now kicking in. Thanks again fellas

Offline cb550k-aaron

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #23 on: March 27, 2019, 09:46:45 PM »
Hi guys, I'm still getting this 1v Drop. It's making me paranoid I'm gonna do in another battery or worse. I bought a proper Reg Rec for a lithium battery which I hope will help.

Basically if I measure at the Battery it's 12.8 but the Black at the Reg Rec it's 11.8. if I unplugged that wire I get about 12.4 at that wire. The coils seem to take a lot of power. Should I consider changing them?

I have this all new...
Loom
Battery
Reg Rec
Ignition switch
Headlight bulb 35w

Offline Bryanj

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #24 on: March 27, 2019, 09:55:24 PM »
I would suggest checked battery voltage when running and charging first. 1 volt is not terrible, at least on mechanical reg.

Offline cb550k-aaron

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #25 on: March 27, 2019, 10:34:45 PM »
Hi Bryan, it's an Electronic style Reg Rec. Solid one

Offline Moorey

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #26 on: March 27, 2019, 11:05:24 PM »
What are your voltage readings across the battery at  tickover ,2000,  3000,, 5000,rpm
What made you pick a lithium battery when these charging systems were made for lead acid batteries. Different types of batteries require different charging regimes. Lead acid, gel, AGM, lithium etc  unfortunately these days 12v batteries are not just 12v batteries. I would advise anyone with these old bikes to stick to good old refillable lead acid batteries.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2019, 11:40:25 PM by moorey »

Offline Lobo

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #27 on: March 28, 2019, 12:49:44 AM »
I’ll declare here... I’m not a sparky.

But tbh, I think you’re worrying over nothing (ie 1v drop), and if the electrics are otherwise good just put the sidepanels back on & enjoy the bike.

Your post intrigued me, and so I measured the voltages on my 750K2 & 400F.
Both bikes have new everything, including looms, OEM VRs, rectifiers, fuse boxes, overhauled switch gear, Newtronic (breakerless) ignitions (tho’ OEM Coils)... and notably LiFe batteries.

The 750 battery reads 13v (no load & across its terminals), and at the Voltage Regulator (ign on & across Black & Green wires)  this is then 12.6v.
Coils + Newtronic On (via the kill switch) drop the voltage at the VR to 12v.

The 400 battery (identical unit) reads 13.1v (no load & across its terminals), and at the VR (ign on & across Black & Green wires) this is then 12.2v.
Coils + Newtronic On (via the kill switch) drops the voltage at the VR to 10.7v. (this surprised me; but given the bike performs faultlessly I’m not gonna go looking for trouble here!)

Your voltage drop, to me, is acceptable... and simply due the ignition switch + various bullet connectors along the way / through the circuit.

The uprated coils indeed take more power than the OEM type, but I fail to see how changing them will ‘cure’ your concern... they drop the voltage for sure, simply meaning the VR will ‘hang in’ longer in order to reach the max charge voltage.

As mentioned previously by Bryan & moorey, you should consider a voltage check under power; unsure of the CB550, but the ‘750 tops off at abouts 14.5V from 4000rpm. This surely will point to whether you’re likely to cook the battery...

A note of caution here... the 750 / 400...& I guess 550 alternators, are on the limit wrt output. Everything switched on (OEM machine), and at low revs you’ll deplete the battery. I found this out from experience... hotwired an ammeter into the battery circuit, and at less than about 3000rpm noticed a drain. I now ride ‘lights off’ when about town etc. (my point is here, your new coils will exacerbate the charging issue)

Finally moorey, take your point in respect of these 1970 machines. I was in a position of only getting to ride my bikes a couple of times a year (worked abroad) and was bored of returning to flat batteries. I talked to the guys at Carrot Batteries, took the punt, and bought the LiFes. Expensive... £150 or so iirc, but these things are amazing. They weigh nothing... it’s like an empty plastic box - wow. They have internal circuitry to tolerate ‘agricultural’ charging (!). But, best of all, they maintain voltage regardless of lack of use... I could go > a year with no worries, no maintenance charging is needed. The final biggy is their longevity... I think mine are abouts 6yo and still going strong - this offsets the initial purchase price somewhat.
(I’ve got a 3rd LiFe in my 2011 MotoGuzzi - again, no issues; really pleased with it)

There is of course a downside to these batteries is you’ll need to buy a special charger... they drain just like any other battery if you leave lights on / excessive cranking etc.
Would I buy them again - probably. Certainly they were fantastic whilst I rarely used the bikes... now, I guess, they’re an expensive luxury.

Anyways... good luck aaron.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2019, 06:36:01 AM by Lobo »

Offline cb550k-aaron

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #28 on: March 28, 2019, 08:21:16 AM »
What are your voltage readings across the battery at  tickover ,2000,  3000,, 5000,rpm
What made you pick a lithium battery when these charging systems were made for lead acid batteries. Different types of batteries require different charging regimes. Lead acid, gel, AGM, lithium etc  unfortunately these days 12v batteries are not just 12v batteries. I would advise anyone with these old bikes to stick to good old refillable lead acid batteries.

I understand what your saying, but i went the Cafe Racer route so very limited space ;)

Offline cb550k-aaron

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Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« Reply #29 on: March 28, 2019, 08:26:30 AM »
I’ll declare here... I’m not a sparky.

But tbh, I think you’re worrying over nothing (ie 1v drop), and if the electrics are otherwise good just put the sidepanels back on & enjoy the bike.

Your post intrigued me, and so I measured the voltages on my 750K2 & 400F.
Both bikes have new everything, including looms, OEM VRs, rectifiers, fuse boxes, overhauled switch gear, Newtronic (breakerless) ignitions (tho’ OEM Coils)... and notably LiFe batteries.

The 750 battery reads 13v (no load & across its terminals), and at the Voltage Regulator (ign on & across Black & Green wires)  this is then 12.6v.
Coils + Newtronic On (via the kill switch) drop the voltage at the VR to 12v.

The 400 battery (identical unit) reads 13.1v (no load & across its terminals), and at the VR (ign on & across Black & Green wires) this is then 12.2v.
Coils + Newtronic On (via the kill switch) drops the voltage at the VR to 10.7v. (this surprised me; but given the bike performs faultlessly I’m not gonna go looking for trouble here!)

Your voltage drop, to me, is acceptable... and simply due the ignition switch + various bullet connectors along the way / through the circuit.

The uprated coils indeed take more power than the OEM type, but I fail to see how changing them will ‘cure’ your concern... they drop the voltage for sure, simply meaning the VR will ‘hang in’ longer in order to reach the max charge voltage.

As mentioned previously by Bryan & moorey, you should consider a voltage check under power; unsure of the CB550, but the ‘750 tops off at abouts 14.5V from 4000rpm. This surely will point to whether you’re likely to cook the battery...

A note of caution here... the 750 / 400...& I guess 550 alternators, are on the limit wrt output. Everything switched on (OEM machine), and at low revs you’ll deplete the battery. I found this out from experience... hotwired an ammeter into the battery circuit, and at less than about 3000rpm noticed a drain. I now ride ‘lights off’ when about town etc. (my point is here, your new coils will exacerbate the charging issue)

Finally moorey, take your point in respect of these 1970 machines. I was in a position of only getting to ride my bikes a couple of times a year (worked abroad) and was bored of returning to flat batteries. I talked to the guys at Carrot Batteries, took the punt, and bought the LiFes. Expensive... £150 or so iirc, but these things are amazing. They weigh nothing... it’s like an empty plastic box - wow. They have internal circuitry to tolerate ‘agricultural’ charging (!). But, best of all, they maintain voltage regardless of lack of use... I could go > a year with no worries, no maintenance charging is needed. The final biggy is their longevity... I think mine are abouts 6yo and still going strong - this offsets the initial purchase price somewhat.
(I’ve got a 3rd LiFe in my 2011 MotoGuzzi - again, no issues; really pleased with it)

There is of course a downside to these batteries is you’ll need to buy a special charger... they drain just like any other battery if you leave lights on / excessive cranking etc.
Would I buy them again - probably. Certainly they were fantastic whilst I rarely used the bikes... now, I guess, they’re an expensive luxury.

Anyways... good luck aaron.

Hi Lobo,

I completely understand what your saying and i could be chasing my tail here! as Mentioned by yourself and others ill measure the values when the bike is running and report back.

 My taking on it was, If the Black wire was reading a Lot less than the Battery, the Reg Rec then compensated for that therefore overcharging. I could be wrong tho and a running bike is obviously the key.

I just want a problem free summer this year as every year there's been something wrong lol!

Thanks again guys