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Looking at the clutch cable will the nipple on the end go through the hole in the screwed adjuster?
I will have a look at my box of assorted cables and let you know. As your cable is fubared i would clamp the end of the outer by yhe adjuster in a vice and use a spanner to turn the adjuster away from it with lost of WD
Dimensions...Inner cable length, ball-end to ball-end… 45 inchesOuter housing length, metal sleeve at handlebar to end of adjustment screw at clutch housing… 41-5/8 inchesAdjustment screw at clutch housing… 1-11/16 inchesThere’s also a protective sleeve around the outer housing, about 13-1/2 inches long, which starts about 17-1/2 inches from the metal sleeve of the outer housing at the handlebar
As you need to keep the adjuster and the cable is scrap a measure of mechanical violence is OK
There is, or rather should be, some "free play" in the lever movement before the mechanism starts to operate the clutch.
These is, or should be, a little anti rattle tube on the lever fitting as well. When these are shot or missing it makes the lever feel even looser.Edit...him indoors has told me I'm loosing the plot, the anti rattle is on the brake lever...doh
The clutch lever's pivoted cable mount end is pretty badly rusted where the cable attaches. I'd like to try to reuse it; can I safely soak it in vinegar as well? Not sure what kind of finish it has, and whether it will handle it...
Thank you Bryan - I don't know how much the shipping would be, but the ebay guy I mentioned earlier has been very helpful with trying to sort out if it's really the right cable, and he's charging US$20 including shipping, so based on all that I'll probably go that way...