1976 CB550F1 (what have I let myself in for) Project

[eight0]

It is looking awesome. I really like the colours you have chosen and the seat suits very well, did you make that yourself?

Thanks, yeah I made it myself, you can see how I did it on page 4. LV customs london then did the bodywork on it and organised the upholstery. It's really good quality leather, I got a whole hide from a friend who owns a leather company Jekyl and Hide.

[eight0]

Please can someone tell me the part number for what I'm assuming is the chain guide that's supposed to go here? I'm probably being blind but I can't find it on the parts diagrams.

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[hairygit]

That is the mounting bracket for the front of the stock chainguard

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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Please can someone tell me the part number for what I'm assuming is the chain guide that's supposed to go here? I'm probably being blind but I can't find it on the parts diagrams.

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Are those the standard shaft seals those yellow ends in the picture?

[eight0]

Ah ok, so is there no rubber chain guide then?

They look yellow in the photo but they are actually standard dust seals painted gold.

[Sesman]

Correct, no rubber chain guard.

When’s the fire up?

[eight0]

Going to have to wait for that unfortunately. The vapour blasters are backed up so it will be a few weeks. I've got the gear controls fitted up and the front brakes bled (twin disks are a bastard)

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I also modded the original tach mount to make it into a plug.

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Its really just the carbs I'm waiting for now.

[taysidedragon]

That looks really mean. 👍

[Bryanj]

At the price tach drives fetch i hope that one was broken!!

[eight0]

I'm not sure I want to ask, but how much to tach drives get?

[Bryanj]

Lets just say new ones are over£100 just for the casting, US ebay seem to dell used for $75-$90

[eight0]

Just a quick update as I've got no decent pics to share, I'll take some this week. 

I've got the carbs back from vapour blasting and rebuilt.
The bikes filled up with oil and I had it coming out the front where the filter goes before I put the filter on and now the oil light goes out when I crank it over.
How do I know if it's making it to the head? I cant really see much past the tappits and I've tried leaving the end caps off but not got any oil coming out there yet.

The main issue I have currently, a fairly large one is that I have no spark. I've got a Dyna S electronic ignition with aftermarket 5 ohm coils. I timed the Dyna as per the instructions. You time it at the advance mark and twist the counterweight to fully advanced and the light should come on then.

The coils did get quite hot when I was doing the timing so I thought I might have damaged them but they are still measuring at 5ohms so not sure. I need to do a bit more investigation, i've yet to test the pickups on the Dyna which should read infinite ohms on all ranges.

Any ideas on what else I can check?

[K2-K6]

With the coils getting hot it shows they have power (+ positive supply) with the switching done by the earth line you can get them to spark manually.

With ignition on,  disconnect the "trigger" wires from coil to ignition system, then hold one of those wires (from coil) against an earth. Now when you remove that earth connection it should throw a spark out.

If it does,  then you'll probably need to check the ignition system's earth route to make sure it's competent.  They effectively use transistors to do as you've just done manually by switching the earth line on and off to make the coil discharge a spark. If the transistor can't get a decent earth route it may not operate.

[K2-K6]

Oil feed to top end, it takes longer to get there and you've just got to check it probably when it's started.

Light out means the main crank feed is ok and up to pressure, which is good. It takes longer and more pump revolutions to get through to the head in much of an observable quantity.  Wait till it starts and keep checking as you have to see then.

[eight0]

Ok thanks for the advice, I'll give that a go.