Other Stuff > Tricks & Tips

Cam Chain Adjusting

<< < (2/2)

Bryanj:
Nah, Dave, the original post said "First find a trained spider with a mechanical bent" Also useful for re-fitting 500/550 cam covers!

SteveD CB500K0:

--- Quote from: Bryanj on May 14, 2008, 05:34:41 PM ---spider with a mechanical bent

--- End quote ---

A mechanical bent what?


We should have QOTM on this site!

Bryanj:
Ah Steve that is the ultimate question, to which the answer is not 42.

I did know but the years have passed and the grey cells have been Guinesssed repeatedly(if you can get away with tappety-----) so there is no longer any sense or knowledge

Yoshi823:
I found that the info in the owners book for my CB750F2 was quite incorrect.It said to adjust the camchain with the engine running...just loosen the locknut and back off the bolt that operates against the sliding part of the tensioner.
But this never worked...it made the camchain noise worse.
I always found that the best way was to position the crank into the 'T' position for #1 and 4.Make sure that the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke by making sure that the tappet adjusters are loose ie.as if you were going to adjust the tappet gaps.
Then turn the engine 15 degrees clockwise after the #1&4 'T' mark.This is equivalent to the trailing edge of the timing post for the auto advance/retard spring post.
Once the engine is in this position,loosen the locknut on the camchain tensioner.
On the 500/550 fours I always just gave the centre screw adjuster a tap with the end of a small hammer.
On the 750 fours I just undid the bolt that locked the tensioner shaft,the spring would push the shaft against tensioner blade.The locknut could then be 'nipped up'.

This procedure always worked,rather than guessing where the engine might put the least tension on the cam chain.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page