Author Topic: Kawasaki Z650 cam idler on a Bomber mod ???  (Read 1069 times)

Offline AshimotoK0

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Kawasaki Z650 cam idler on a Bomber mod ???
« on: July 05, 2019, 12:48:35 AM »
Anyone got any thoughts on using a Kawasaki KZ650 camchain idler sprocket to fix a CB450 one. I checked and the number of teeth/diameters are the same. The Kawa part has dampening rubber which may cause problems if it's a used part and the rubber has hardenened but I reckon you could machine away the rubber so that it is clearr of the chain. After all the 450 didn't have that feature anyway. There are several of these sprockets on the KZ650 cam chain tensioner and they seem to be in really good shape on a lot of used parts I see and seem fairly easy to obtain. Or is there another fix for the rare and very expensive cam chain tensioner/guide assemblies on the 450 motor ? The top idler is available as a pattern part but it is brass bushed and not sure if the other idler sprockets in the two rivetted assemblies have needle roller bearings as in the CB250K/CB750 SOHC.

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Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Kawasaki Z650 cam idler on a Bomber mod ???
« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2019, 09:44:15 AM »
 I stripped down the Honda assembly and it is bushed not needle roller bearing. The pin/bearing sleeve onto which the idler sprocket spins  on both Honda and Kawasaki are EXACTLY the same diameter......I notice that Cappellini Moto do a replacement sprocket and pin ... another option.

 http://www.cappellinimoto.it/.../motorbike/CB450K/product/13


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« Last Edit: July 05, 2019, 01:06:51 PM by AshimotoK0 »
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Re: Kawasaki Z650 cam idler on a Bomber mod ???
« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2019, 06:43:13 PM »
If they match in form I see no reason why they cannot be substituted.

Essentially they are put into the design to get the chain wrapped around the driven, and loaded, components. The crank and cams being these parts, the idlers try to prevent the chain contacting the nose of the sprockets even when run with slack in it.  If a chain meets with the top of the sprocket teeth it'll almost instantly snap it,  or certainly overload it severely.

In addition, by making shorter chain run as it's divided into several sections, this serves to change the frequency at which each of those runs will resonate,   by shortening the sections the frequency should move to a point that occurs above the operating inputs from the engine,  so avoiding the chain itself getting to a point at which it would be detrimental to its own structure and fatigue / lifing.

The idlers don't have to be anything fancy as long as they have the ability to take the same bearing load in use.

 

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