Author Topic: Drill recommendations  (Read 1612 times)

Offline paulbaker1954

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Drill recommendations
« on: October 10, 2019, 11:45:13 PM »
Can anyone recommend a set of drill bits for drilling out old Honda panhead screws and the like

I seem to continually struggle with what I thought was a simple job. My Bosch HSS bits don’t seem to touch them

I also bought a set of cobalt ones but struggle with those as well

Maybe I need a class in the art of drilling 😂😂😂
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Offline matthewmosse

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2019, 12:21:38 AM »
I just use Lidl  /  parkside drillbits most of the time, if they snap I top us using cheap drills off Ebay, I think it was about £9 for 99 drillbits, lots of the small sizes, less as you go up. I was using one of these cheapie to centre bore stel bar on the lathe, managed about 1.5 metres in total before sharpening was needed. I often find drills are not properly sharp when new and need a tickle, and the wings also chip easily on rounded Phillip's screws until they are properly eaten into by the drillbit, I go for a 7 or 8mm drillbit to start off taking the heads off m6 panhead or Allen screws if they round. If a good lot of swarf isn't spoiling off the drillbit, stop and sharpen, never persist as a drillbit, once it's got hot needs s lot of effort to sharpen and get back to properly tempered steel that will hold an edge. My pet hate is blunt drillbits, spent 18 months in an engineering firm where no one sharpened drillbits and the pedestal grinder was miles from the drill, I have bench grinders 2 foot from the pillar drill, running several grits of stone right down to a really fine, water cooled whitestone. A shap drillbit should have the head off a m6 panhead in 30 seconds, using a basic cordless drill.
After practice I now tend to be able to fairly consistently drill bolts out well enough to pull the thread if the bolt out like a helicoil gone wrong leaving the trapped hole intact.
Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline paulbaker1954

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2019, 08:04:04 AM »
I just use Lidl  /  parkside drillbits most of the time, if they snap I top us using cheap drills off Ebay, I think it was about £9 for 99 drillbits, lots of the small sizes, less as you go up. I was using one of these cheapie to centre bore stel bar on the lathe, managed about 1.5 metres in total before sharpening was needed. I often find drills are not properly sharp when new and need a tickle, and the wings also chip easily on rounded Phillip's screws until they are properly eaten into by the drillbit, I go for a 7 or 8mm drillbit to start off taking the heads off m6 panhead or Allen screws if they round. If a good lot of swarf isn't spoiling off the drillbit, stop and sharpen, never persist as a drillbit, once it's got hot needs s lot of effort to sharpen and get back to properly tempered steel that will hold an edge. My pet hate is blunt drillbits, spent 18 months in an engineering firm where no one sharpened drillbits and the pedestal grinder was miles from the drill, I have bench grinders 2 foot from the pillar drill, running several grits of stone right down to a really fine, water cooled whitestone. A shap drillbit should have the head off a m6 panhead in 30 seconds, using a basic cordless drill.
After practice I now tend to be able to fairly consistently drill bolts out well enough to pull the thread if the bolt out like a helicoil gone wrong leaving the trapped hole intact.

Thanks Matthew I think I must just be doing something fundamentally wrong with my drills or something. I even tried to drill out some cheap screws from my gate hinges last weekend and just could not get the drill to bite. Sadly I have never been trained to sharpen drills and don’t have a grinder in my garage so I Just buy new drills but simply can’t understand what I am doing wrong

For example I tried drilling off the pan heads on my oil pump and got nowhere even with Cobalt drills🙈🙈🙈
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Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2019, 08:05:31 AM »
I drill a fairly small hole and hammer in a Torqx type bit or use a 5/16" bi-hex socket onto the outside of those screws. Will have to check but pretty certain its a 5/16" or you can use one of those sockets with internal Torx type profile. The impact and superior  grip almost always gets em out. The exception are the ones that the thread had severely corroded in the alloy and the thread snaps off with the excessive torque applied. If using a socket best to grind off the front chamfered portion  to get more of the profile forced onto the pan-head.
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Offline davefirestorm

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2019, 08:32:59 AM »
As stated make sure the drill is sharp and don’t run drill too fast put a smaller hole in first and the bigger drill will follow that hole a centre drill ideal to use initially
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Offline Moorey

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2019, 09:17:12 AM »
Get a set of left hand drill bits and keep them just for head/ broken stud removal. A lot of the time they just unwind the screw you need out.
« Last Edit: October 11, 2019, 09:25:09 AM by Moorey »

Offline davefirestorm

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2019, 11:13:31 AM »
Was going to suggest the left hand drill trick and it usualy works,I’ve just bought an impact driver at a bootsale and had success with that,only cost me£2 ;D
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Offline adespin

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #7 on: October 11, 2019, 11:31:29 AM »
My advise to you is, buy the best drill available, not the cheap chinese sold by the likes of Aldi and Lidle. I use Dormer they are the best, https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=10&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjJ47a0_JPlAhUUXMAKHRPvDsYQFjAJegQIBhAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co.uk%2Fslp%2Fdormer-drill-bits%2Fthyoqg3x9yskv9u&usg=AOvVaw1pgbmVL1KUk1YuDGfTi54f

I have used these for the past 55 years since i was an apprentice in a engineering company.
« Last Edit: October 11, 2019, 11:39:22 AM by adespin »
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Offline Colonial-Clive (yindi)

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2019, 12:25:02 PM »
Aldi have a great drill bit sharpener at the moment £15ish no garage should be without one.

Offline matthewmosse

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2019, 12:47:30 PM »
Speed is often what kills drill bits. Dormer drills are great ( Presto also a top notch brand) but if you blunt off Lidl bits it's likely you'll blunt off or snap the expensive ones just as quick. Lidl drill sharpening jigs are a cost effective tool - I have one but find it easier to just sharpen freehand so have not used the jigs yet, theres only room for so many bench grinders on the table and I tend to sharpen as I go, if I decide to do a batch the jig might get setup, I found the chainsaw sharpening machine to be very good as long as you use it gently, a friend of mine told me his is awful as it has too much play, I can see what he means but if you dont force it or try to work fast, its actually very effective and faster than a file, if the chains hit a nail, possibly I am faster with a file if its just a quick dress from normal wear, but that because I have a over a decades experience of sharpening the old fashioned way. The jigs are dead handy to use if you are not confident to sharpen freehand.
Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline Moorey

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2019, 01:31:26 PM »
Speed is often what kills drill bits. Dormer drills are great ( Presto also a top notch brand) but if you blunt off Lidl bits it's likely you'll blunt off or snap the expensive ones just as quick. Lidl drill sharpening jigs are a cost effective tool - I have one but find it easier to just sharpen freehand so have not used the jigs yet, theres only room for so many bench grinders on the table and I tend to sharpen as I go, if I decide to do a batch the jig might get setup, I found the chainsaw sharpening machine to be very good as long as you use it gently, a friend of mine told me his is awful as it has too much play, I can see what he means but if you dont force it or try to work fast, its actually very effective and faster than a file, if the chains hit a nail, possibly I am faster with a file if its just a quick dress from normal wear, but that because I have a over a decades experience of sharpening the old fashioned way. The jigs are dead handy to use if you are not confident to sharpen freehand.

I got a lidl chain sharpener and it did a great job on my chains, months later when I wanted to use it  the  thing wouldn't  run. They have a ridiculous electronics board in them that had a dry joint.  FFS why do you need a board like that in what is basically a grinder.

Offline matthewmosse

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #11 on: October 11, 2019, 03:41:08 PM »
I assume it is what reduces the speed, probably possible to bypass the switch and run direct but very fast or by a new board. I think the board may be replaceable for not a lot - if it's what I think it is its less than a fiver, but not had mine appart to look. I know the led worklamp I had from there the board packed up, a generic replacement was 80p delivered, a few days of solder and a £15 work light was saved from landfill.
Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline taysidedragon

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #12 on: October 11, 2019, 04:13:51 PM »
I assume it is what reduces the speed, probably possible to bypass the switch and run direct but very fast or by a new board. I think the board may be replaceable for not a lot - if it's what I think it is its less than a fiver, but not had mine appart to look. I know the led worklamp I had from there the board packed up, a generic replacement was 80p delivered, a few days of solder and a £15 work light was saved from landfill.

Great! Where can I order a few days of solder from? 😁😁
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Offline Moorey

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #13 on: October 11, 2019, 06:17:40 PM »
I assume it is what reduces the speed, probably possible to bypass the switch and run direct but very fast or by a new board. I think the board may be replaceable for not a lot - if it's what I think it is its less than a fiver, but not had mine appart to look. I know the led worklamp I had from there the board packed up, a generic replacement was 80p delivered, a few days of solder and a £15 work light was saved from landfill.

Great! Where can I order a few days of solder from? 😁😁

From the few days warehouse.  ;D

Offline matthewmosse

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Re: Drill recommendations
« Reply #14 on: October 12, 2019, 08:16:44 AM »
Sorry, auto correct, should say dabs
Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

 

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