Lets build a SOHC for less than a grand

[Bryanj]

I found on the 500 that no washer worked, perhaps i was just lucky

[Trigger]

I found on the 500 that no washer worked, perhaps i was just lucky

The distance between the bottom edge frame stop and the high point on the bottom yoke ( steering lock area) is 3.2mm so, if I remove the packing washer (4mm) it will touch mate. 

[Bryanj]

I know the one i did it on was a total mish mash of parts so i must have struck lucky for once.
I wasnt using a taper "kit" but individual bearing from Hy-Level, top and bottom bought seperatelyand niether had washers.

[Trigger]

I know the one i did it on was a total mish mash of parts so i must have struck lucky for once.
I wasnt using a taper "kit" but individual bearing from Hy-Level, top and bottom bought seperatelyand niether had washers.

Nice to have some luck on it all fitting OK.
I will have another look at it tomorrow but, I have never had this problem with the old ball bearings 

[Erny]

On contrary I'm definitely fan of tapered one.
I did that 3x already (CBF1000F, 750 K7, 550 K1).
On 750 K7 and 550 K1 - under bottom one I used one of washers to keep OEM bottom bearing height. Upper, I had to grind upper cup that holds upper bearing. Yes there is appox 2mm gap as you noticed, Trig, but easy to fix, either rubber or stainless washer with right thickness.
Handling is heavily improved! Especially later, no maintenance, much longer lifetime. On my CBF1000F it finally fixed many years present issue of hadlebar wobbling.

[Trigger]

On contrary I'm definitely fan of tapered one.
I did that 3x already (CBF1000F, 750 K7, 550 K1).
On 750 K7 and 550 K1 - under bottom one I used one of washers to keep OEM bottom bearing height. Upper, I had to grind upper cup that holds upper bearing. Yes there is appox 2mm gap as you noticed, Trig, but easy to fix, either rubber or stainless washer with right thickness.
Handling is heavily improved! Especially later, no maintenance, much longer lifetime. On my CBF1000F it finally fixed many years present issue of hadlebar wobbling.

It will not make any difference if you grind the upper cup as, the bearing sits proud and you can't grind the bearing.
I have made up some new spacer washers at 2.5mm thick which reduces the 2mm gap at the headlight bracket to leave a 0.5mm gap. The head light bracket rubbers need to be compressed by 0.5 mm on the top and bottom rubbers to stop the headlight brackets vibrating and causing the headlight bulbs to blow. I can't find that extra 1.5mm don't matter what i do


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[Erny]

2 rubber washers will make it. That's the way I did. I also have ready washers made for this purpose from stainless steel with several thickness. If you want some, tell me height you need to cover, I can send you some in evelope

[Bryanj]

Ive got 2 frames on the bench both with hy level bearings, i will let you know when i find the bottom yolks to fit up

[Trigger]

cheers for the offer Erny.
In these tapper bearing kits it is the top roller and cup that is too deep. As a result of this you will only get the top nut on 1 and a 1/4 threads and the ears are not a good fit. I have gone back to the old ball race OEM type and now the top nut is 4 and a 1/2 turns on and the headlight brackets fit perfectly 

The ideal pack washer on the bottom is 3mm and who ever made up these kits needs to look at them again. But, they are only using tapper bearings that are available on the market. The only way I could get a extra turn on the top nut was to use a thinner washer but, still not enough thread.


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[K2-K6]

Contemporarily,  many of us near him bought taper roller kits from Dave Degens at his Dresda shop over in Putney.

He bought the standard size bearings and then had a machine shop grind one of them to make a straight swap from factory fit to comprise the kit.  So that fits in with your experience here Trig.

Must admit that I didn't pay much attention to exactly what he modded but fitted a fair few kits to friends bikes then.  Always no adaption needed,  and all installed as original kit. Seem to remember that the bearing id was missing from one of the faces,  suggesting that they'd just been mounted of a mag base and skimmed with a linear surface grinder.

Probably a little market here for correct set nowadays,  that would fit properly as most seam to come up with the problem you observe.

I've always felt as Erny does,  they make a good mod for these bikes and are much move resilient than ball races. 

[Trigger]

Contemporarily,  many of us near him bought taper roller kits from Dave Degens at his Dresda shop over in Putney.

He bought the standard size bearings and then had a machine shop grind one of them to make a straight swap from factory fit to comprise the kit.  So that fits in with your experience here Trig.

Must admit that I didn't pay much attention to exactly what he modded but fitted a fair few kits to friends bikes then.  Always no adaption needed,  and all installed as original kit. Seem to remember that the bearing id was missing from one of the faces,  suggesting that they'd just been mounted of a mag base and skimmed with a linear surface grinder.

Probably a little market here for correct set nowadays,  that would fit properly as most seam to come up with the problem you observe.

I've always felt as Erny does,  they make a good mod for these bikes and are much move resilient than ball races.

There is something not right with this top bearing. Sat down and went through a ton of tapper bearing spec's and couldn't find one that would work. The only way to get the top bearing to sit lower is to mill the head stock so, the cup sits lower.

One to one and a quarter turns on the top nut is not ideal in engineering 

[K2-K6]

Think it is as you find it,  standard bearings will give the discrepancy observed and seen by others on here with kit parts.

What Degens did I'm not sure but they do fit.  Vague memory is that the bearing numbers where missing from one of them,  suggesting that both the cup and centre had been ground to reduce overall installed height and bring assembly within range of Honda fit.

The rollers stay clear of the narrowest taper point as far as most of them are arranged,  giving scope to grind that face and move the outer track down into the frame without dropping the rollers through the track at their narrowest point.  That along with a grind of the top most bore track maybe would get it there.

Friend has an old K6 with one of those sets installed,  but don't think he'd want it dismantled to just have a look.

[Trigger]

Going through some old boxes and came across an old Cibie headlight. I know that oldjob has said about these before but, I have never really had a good look at one. They have a reflector in front of the bulb and a clear bit of lens on the right side only.
Found some old clock, which I think are 550K1 or K2.



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[Bryanj]

Cibies were always the Mutts, expensive, nutts only bettered by C E V Marchall which had 2 seperate bulbs

[K2-K6]

Looks to be a UK spec Z180,  which is the best one for bikes.

They have a very long reach left hand illumination that is kept away from oncoming driver's view on dip beam,  so particularly effective for the rider even with vehicles coming the other way.  Also helps to keep that range even when lent over.

Very fancy  a pukka vintage piece.