Author Topic: steering bearings ( tapered)  (Read 1793 times)

MIKE550/4

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steering bearings ( tapered)
« on: April 23, 2009, 09:47:57 PM »
ok need some help with this already broke a set of these

firstly can someone clarify that you dont use the part that the old ball bearings sat in

secondly this is the way i am doing it, washer onto stem, then bearings... then put the yolk into frame  ( 2 parts onto stem only )

i have a 4-5 mm gap as per pic .. any other way of getting these bearings all the way down without breaking them into lots of parts

lastly any special grease needed?

heres the pic


MIKE550/4

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Re: steering bearings ( tapered)
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2009, 07:47:18 AM »
anyone done this before

must be a way of getting this bearing down ,

here is another pic of part i mentioned if it goes on or not ( what the bearings sat in originally, ( no instructions comes with parts which is handy ) really not sure if top and bottom ones from old ball bearings go back on in rebuild of new taper bearings






Offline pae

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Re: steering bearings ( tapered)
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2009, 09:03:02 AM »
Yes, remove the part that the old balls ran on. You'll need to press the new bearing down onto the shaft of the yoke. You'll need a tube that's a reasonably good fit so that you only press on the inner race (the 'sleeve' that sits snugly around the shaft) not the outer sleeve.

I can't remember how tight it was to get it on, but it couldn't have been too bad as I don't have a great workshop or collection of tools and I managed.

Here's my finished one...


« Last Edit: April 24, 2009, 09:11:22 AM by pae »

Offline pae

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Re: steering bearings ( tapered)
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2009, 09:10:52 AM »
Just remembered something else that might help. The outer race (the ring with a tapered bore that goes into the frame headstock) is different top and bottom.

The lower one (this is CB650 I'm talking about) sits slightly proud of the headstock when pressed fully home, so you can do that by tapping it into place (squarely) with some wood or plastic to protect the face.

The top one though is in a deep counterbore which means you have to drive it down into the headstock, and being tapered there's very little material to press on. I had a brass tapered piece made up that fits inside the taper of the outer race, with a hole in the centre. With a length of studding right the way through the length of the headstock i just tightened up a nut on the end to pull the top race down into place. It kept it nice and square, made sure it was fully seated into the bore, and the job was done in no time without any chance of damage.

You're welcome to borrow it. PM your address if interested.

Phil

 

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