Roger’s 400 build

[Rogerxlixi]

Well after 2 years from originally buying and posting in the forum I thought I better update on my progress so far.

The first year went pretty well and work progressed swiftly. The second year however was rather much slower, mainly down to a house extension and my CB being deposited in a storage unit for around 9 months. As you can imagine this slowed progress somewhat.

To date I’ve been concentrating on the chassis. The frame, Swingarm, yokes, centre stand and some other small stuff went of to be coated. I decided to use Cerakote and the finished articles came back excellent. The Swingarm required some repairs along the way after finding rust and filler in it!! Next along I got the hubs, front brakes items, spindles, engine bolts, Swingarm pivot, battery box and other item coated too.

So now, as you can see the frame, Swingarm, yokes and  centre stand are back together. I’m just about to order some rims and spokes, and some fork tubes to try and push on a little further, I would like a rolling chassis by then end of the summer if possible and then move onto the engine.

[Andych]

Wow... the Cerakote looks really good.. In Australia it would probably be too expensive a process to use on a frame.. the hubs etc all came out really good and will benefit from the Cerakote.

[Rogerxlixi]

Some more parts turned up this week. Rims and spokes.

First time I’d laced a wheel, and it showed. Followed a couple of online guides I found. Started on the front which went slow until I found my way. Then managed to get the rear done pretty quick.

Got to wait to borrow a mates wheel balance stand to get them true’d up.

[Lobo]

Great job that one Roger... really satisfying. A borrowed balance is the way to go, tho’ all not lost if you don’t have one; I’ve trued and balance 4 of my wheels now on a home-made jobby - worked a treat.
Don’t forget a final ping of all spokes at the end to check all under tension.
Enjoy...

[Rogerxlixi]

Hubs were Matt aluminium I think.
No not Leeds, down in Suffolk, near Bury St Edmunds. The guy, Simon, has a Facebook page, Flying Tiger Paintwork. I had some rearsets and brackets done on my KTM a while back and not had an issue, brake and gear pedals wearing very well (loads better than paint or powder coat).

[waffey]

just trying to respoke my front wheel and struggling. do you have a link to the info?

as the picture shows, did you put all the spokes in first then drop the rim on.

stick with me as its my first time as well

edit: no offset?

[SeanFD]

Wow... the Cerakote looks really good.. In Australia it would probably be too expensive a process to use on a frame.. the hubs etc all came out really good and will benefit from the Cerakote.

Were the pics the right way up down there? On my screen they were upside-down! 

[SteveD CB500K0]

Mobile phones are notorious for sorting this out for you.

Sometimes you don’t know until someone says “your pictures are upside down!”

PCs are dumb. Look at it on a PC if you want to check


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Moorey]

just trying to respoke my front wheel and struggling. do you have a link to the info?

as the picture shows, did you put all the spokes in first then drop the rim on.

stick with me as its my first time as well

edit: no offset?

Look on youtube there are vids showing how its done.

[Rozabikes Tim]

Really fancy having a go at wheel building sometime. Can anybody post any links to good utube guides?

[Bryanj]

OK, there are two different spokes that have different hub ends, sort them into two piles.
By carefully looking at the hub witness marks you will find that one spoke goes from outside to inside so when its in you see the head from outside
The other sort go from inside to outside so you see the spoke.

Fit the spokes where you can see the head(18 or 20 depending on bike) then by referring to the picture you of couse took before you took it all apart lay the rim over the spokes and lace these spokes to the rim.

Fit wheel spindle and clamp one end in a vice the using some sort of fixed pointer NOT A DIAL GAUGE true the rim on these spokes, accuracy to less than 1/8 inch is Hondas spec, take note there is a point on the rim where it is but welded and this will cause a "kick" both sideways and verticaly that cannot be removed so do not go mental trying!!!

When you have the rim running true on these spokes and they are equaly tight you can easily fit the other spokes and finish off the wheel.

Doing it this way means that for a novice you only have half the spokes to worry about so its easier.

Have fun

Steve, i have written this out a few times can it go in tricks?

[Rozabikes Tim]

Thanks Bryan. Interesting truing it before all spokes fitted. Trust you check again when all in....

Brilliant lockdown fun I would think, learning this.

[Oggie400F]

Great advice Bryan

This will be a great help as I will be re-lacing the front wheel of my 550F with Stainless Rim and Spokes soon.

I need to build a heater oven (AshimotoKO Style), repaint and bake the hub first though.

[Oggie400F]

Hi Oddjob

I don't have a gas BBQ so this will be cheaper than buying one and I can build and dismantle the oven as I need it and store the bricks behind the garage out of site when not in use.
I've already sent for all the electrical equipment I didn't have to hand.  Total cost was less than £22.

Just waiting for the so called eBay UK supplier thermostat to come from China!!  I hate it when this happens.

[Moorey]

Great advice Bryan

This will be a great help as I will be re-lacing the front wheel of my 550F with Stainless Rim and Spokes soon.

I need to build a heater oven (AshimotoKO Style), repaint and bake the hub first though.

If you are using stainless spokes and nipples make sure you check the threads on the spokes are good and lube the threads.