Clutch pull still very hard...

[mattsz]

I just installed my "new" clutch cable; I adjusted the cable per the Honda manual's instructions.  The clutch is still very hard to pull.  I certainly wouldn't want to ride it this way.

Does the "in/out" action of the clutch adjusting screw as I pull and release look normal?  Click on the image for "video"... sorry it's shaky...

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[mattsz]

Check the cable routing is as Honda show it on the wiring and cable routing schematics

It is.  I took care to take photos for reference when I removed it, and the photos show the cable run as matching the diagram...

[Trigger]

Does the manual state clockwise ? If it does it is wrong like the 750 

[mattsz]

TBH the action looks normal.

I woke up thinking about it - the other two bikes I'm "intimately" familiar with both have a shaft which transmits the linear pulling motion of the cable to a pushing motion which disengages the clutch plates.  It appears that Honda uses some sort of threaded arrangement, or rotating cam arrangement, to accomplish that task?  If so, I can see where that movement would be expected.

Disconnect the cable at the clutch end and try pulling the lever whilst pulling as hard as you can on the cable end, it should still feel easy if it’s routed right.

I will try this...

[mattsz]

Does the manual state clockwise ? If it does it is wrong like the 750 

Trigger, I assume you refer to these instructions... are they incorrect?!?

[Nurse Julie]

Does the manual state clockwise ? If it does it is wrong like the 750 

Trigger, I assume you refer to these instructions... are they incorrect?!?

Matt, the instructions in Haynes and the Shop Manual for the 400/4 are correct. It's the 750 manual that is incorrect, they get their clockwise and anti clockwise round the wrong way 🙄🙄🙄

[mattsz]

Matt, the instructions in Haynes and the Shop Manual for the 400/4 are correct. It's the 750 manual that is incorrect, they get their clockwise and anti clockwise round the wrong way 🙄🙄🙄

Thanks Julie!  I'll be digging deeper later today - unless I have to drain the oil to access the clutch release bits.  In that case, it'll wait until I'm ready to drain the oil for other stuff...

[Nurse Julie]

Matt, the instructions in Haynes and the Shop Manual for the 400/4 are correct. It's the 750 manual that is incorrect, they get their clockwise and anti clockwise round the wrong way 🙄🙄🙄

Thanks Julie!  I'll be digging deeper later today - unless I have to drain the oil to access the clutch release bits.  In that case, it'll wait until I'm ready to drain the oil for other stuff...

No need to drain oil for that job Matt.
These are the bit you are looking for. And no, the cups that the ball bearings sit in aren't worn, they should be like that 😁😁😁

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[mattsz]

No need to drain oil for that job Matt.
These are the bit you are looking for. And no, the cups that the ball bearings sit in aren't worn, they should be like that 😁😁😁

Thanks Julie!  Now that I see how the mechanism works, I understand that those cups aren't worn.

But... I don't see how I can access those parts without removing the whole side cover - doesn't that mean draining the oil?  The fill/dipstick hole are part of that cover.  I scanned through your engine rebuild thread for clues, but didn't find any...

[mattsz]

Stick the bike on it's side stand, most times that will drain all the oil to the left and the clutch casing will be empty, you might lose a little but not a great deal. Leave it for a few hours first though so it really drains.

Ah... I wonder if that's what Julie meant?  That job will wait, then, as the side stand is currently off the bike - as is the rear wheel and swing arm!  I have plans to drain the oil soon anyway, I'll add the clutch parts to the list for that time...

[TrickyMicky]

Whilst still looking at simple solutions first, have you by any chance changed the setting/tightness of the small pivot bolt and nut on the handlebar lever, thereby making the lever bind in its housing? Just a random thought before you start any invasive surgery!

[Nurse Julie]

Stick the bike on it's side stand, most times that will drain all the oil to the left and the clutch casing will be empty, you might lose a little but not a great deal. Leave it for a few hours first though so it really drains.

Ah... I wonder if that's what Julie meant?  That job will wait, then, as the side stand is currently off the bike - as is the rear wheel and swing arm!  I have plans to drain the oil soon anyway, I'll add the clutch parts to the list for that time...

Yes, that's what I meant ☺️☺️☺️

[mattsz]

Whilst still looking at simple solutions first, have you by any chance changed the setting/tightness of the small pivot bolt and nut on the handlebar lever, thereby making the lever bind in its housing? Just a random thought before you start any invasive surgery!

Simple is always good!  In this case, no - in fact I disassembled the lever and cleaned and lubed it fresh.  Without the cable attached, the hand lever pivots freely throughout its range...

[mattsz]

Yes, that's what I meant ☺️☺️☺️

 

Now that I've exercised the mechanism quite a bit (after it's been sitting for about a year and a half), I'm finding that when I pull the hand lever very slowly, the lower lever moves in small creaky "jumps," rather than smoothly, like it's fighting stiction throughout its travel.

Definitely worth internal investigation...

[mike the bike]

You're better off leaning the bike right over on something soft, you can then remove the clutch cover without draining the oil.  I've replaced a few clutches this way.