Author Topic: K1 full restoration begins  (Read 7271 times)

Offline WestYorkshireBiker

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #60 on: August 13, 2020, 07:40:26 AM »
Any markings that look like these
I'll check on Friday but thanks for the info.

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Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #61 on: August 13, 2020, 08:40:16 AM »
These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ.....  Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.

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Offline WestYorkshireBiker

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #62 on: August 28, 2020, 04:37:55 PM »
These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ.....  Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Anyone know if the tap size for cylinder head studs is M7(or8??) * 1.25 pitch. Need some taps as one snapped off and needs TLC! Hoping to be able to drill / tap out as it's too far gone.
Failing that's what's best helicoil, vcoil or something else. Thanks.

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« Last Edit: August 28, 2020, 04:42:15 PM by WestYorkshireBiker »
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Offline Trigger

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #63 on: August 28, 2020, 05:14:42 PM »
They are M8 X 1.25.

Why are you trying to take them out ? Leave them alone or you will be looking for a engineering firm that has a spark eroder ( EDM machine ) to remove the broken bits.
Some of these stud holes can not be heli-coiled as they are a oil way for oil to be feed to the head  ;)

Offline WestYorkshireBiker

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #64 on: August 28, 2020, 06:24:21 PM »
They are M8 X 1.25.

Why are you trying to take them out ? Leave them alone or you will be looking for a engineering firm that has a spark eroder ( EDM machine ) to remove the broken bits.
Some of these stud holes can not be heli-coiled as they are a oil way for oil to be feed to the head  ;)
Thanks. Replacing as the engine has been split and sat in a barn exposed for God knows how long and they have seen better day tbh.

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Offline Trigger

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #65 on: August 28, 2020, 07:15:53 PM »
It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go  ;)   

Offline WestYorkshireBiker

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #66 on: August 29, 2020, 04:16:52 PM »
It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go  ;)   
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet!

Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.

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« Last Edit: August 29, 2020, 05:27:01 PM by WestYorkshireBiker »
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Offline WestYorkshireBiker

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #67 on: August 30, 2020, 04:11:54 PM »
It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go  ;)   
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet!

Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.

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Successful day. Finally got the K6 lump out. Onwards and upwards..

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Offline WestYorkshireBiker

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #68 on: September 12, 2020, 04:12:40 PM »
It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go  ;)   
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet!

Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.

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Successful day. Finally got the K6 lump out. Onwards and upwards..

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Mmmm oily...

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Offline WestYorkshireBiker

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #69 on: April 06, 2021, 03:48:26 PM »
These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ.....  Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Hey. Been away a while I'm now back on the rebuild. So I'm still stuck with identifying the con rod bearings. I've got the journal ones worked out but for the con rods that came out if the engine I don't know how to find the shell colour as the rods are not marked as per the manuals. e.g the rods all have '2/29 (or 28)' marked on one side and nothing on the other side. All rods are marked 'S30F' and looking at the bullitins look like the 'new' type with the numbers on.

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Offline WestYorkshireBiker

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Re: K1 full restoration begins
« Reply #70 on: April 06, 2021, 06:27:19 PM »
These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ.....  Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Hey. Been away a while I'm now back on the rebuild. So I'm still stuck with identifying the con rod bearings. I've got the journal ones worked out but for the con rods that came out if the engine I don't know how to find the shell colour as the rods are not marked as per the manuals. e.g the rods all have '2/29 (or 28)' marked on one side and nothing on the other side. All rods are marked 'S30F' and looking at the bullitins look like the 'new' type with the numbers on.

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.... however I've just noticed that (in very very faint scribble) there is a '3' on each of the what I thought were blank sides! So think one answered my own question. (Note to self: get new glasses)

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