Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
That is the ultimate in attention to detail, Ash, I can't imagine even the pickiest concourse judge (or potential buyer) asking for the stator cover to be removed to check the connections look factory, but hey, you know its right and that's what matters! I will try a little solder and possibly a bit of a crimp too, trial and error I guess. I am more concerned about the connection of the heavy gauge copper coil wire to the sleeve than the cable to the rectifier etc. There is a small tag in the sleeve which I will use, not sure for which wire yet. My 2 new soldering irons (one large, one small) turned up today so I will have a go at the weekend.The chroming was £100 plus £10 P&P for the three pieces, I got a quote by email from them before I sent the parts, so there were no unpleasant surprises after the event. As you say, like paint, it's all in the preparation. Agbrigg had been recommended to me by the Z1 Owners club when I was going to get my original front wheel rim rechromed, before someone on that forum saved me wasting a lot of money by pointing out that the Z900 A4 Takasago rim which I had, had the wrong spoke angles for a Z1, as well as (horror of horrors) the wrong date code. As mentioned before Kawasaki code by year and month, I am swapping my A4 spare wheel for a rim which is April 74 same as the code on the swinging arm, but I doubt I'll ever bother to ditch the brand new plain rim I now have fitted to get it 100%, my OCD isn't strong enough to make that necessary. I'll still have the correct rim stashed away though in case the next owner can be bothered. same with the rear, if I ever see the right date coded rim (a long shot) I'll probably feel compelled to buy it. You'd probably best never buy a Z1 Ash, you'd end up chasing the right codes on the switches, torque arm and front disc too! (there may be others as well) And I thought Honda people were being anal about correct DID rim stamps!
Wow.dont remember that. I know he did a V12 Kawasaki. Double up the water cooled 6.Have you got any pictures?Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
My first job this weekend was replacing the lead for the alternator coils. I failed miserably attempting to solder the little metal sleeves that came with the kit. Basically not enough room for the wire and solder inside the sleeve, and no way to get the tip of the soldering iron in there. I have soldered the copper stator wire to the harness wire, but I'm not happy with the result, especially considering the current that will go through these joints when charging. I'm considering unsoldering, and trying a crimp on the sleeves, as the wires only just fit, the connection should be tight, and better than my soldered effort. Which crimp toll and how tight (to grip the wire firmly but not distort the sleeve too much) will be trial and error. Any of you used a crimp?