Author Topic: Z1 as a project?  (Read 25963 times)

Offline sprinta

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #165 on: February 26, 2021, 05:11:22 PM »
Speaking of expense, here's £1,500 worth....

A very nice DPD man called Johnathan turned up this morning, with a big box:



It was full of shiny wonderfulness:




They must have to wear gloves when they make and pack the pipes, as even with clean hands, anywhere you touch them stands out as a greasy handprint. There was an interesting label about how new pipes have been treated with 2 stroke oil, which will burn off with use.

There was some fitting hardware too, but no copper rings or collets, but that's hardly a deal breaker.  I'm glad I got an original pair of the big mounting bolts, as these pipes come with big allen bolts, which will just look wrong.

Quality wise they seem very good, a couple of tiny imperfections but not where you'd notice, and not worth sending them back - at best you'd get a refund while there is no supply, and you'd still need a set of pipes!

The pipes are all bagged and boxed again, and stashed in my attic, as while the bike is on a crate and hasn't got a back wheel fitted I can't mount the pipes. I am rather keen to see them in place though.

Are the headers double skinned like the original pipes were?

Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #166 on: February 26, 2021, 05:30:57 PM »
There’s some confusion about that. A guy on the Z1 forum, who has bought and fitted a set to his very early Z1 says that they are, but if so I couldn’t tell by peering into them.

In hindsight I should have got the callipers from the garage and measured the internal and external diameters, that’s a job for another day now.
1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #167 on: March 01, 2021, 01:59:51 PM »
Before the bike comes off the crate, first I need to fit the back wheel. A plan to fit the back tyre came to nothing when I unwrapped the inner tube that came with the bike. Oddly it was another front one, 19". A suitable 18" Michelin tube has been ordered off the bay of fleas.

Next problem to sort is the gear change. I fitted the new gear lever, only to find that the lever has no interest in self centering, and just stays up or down, wherever you push it. Interestingly the one solitary spare part that came with the bike is a gearchange shaft, complete with the centering spring. So the previous owner seems to have realised there was a problem here and bought the part to fix the problem, hopefully. I was worried that it meant engine out and split the cases, but it can be done in place if I remove the sprocket and inner gear cover.

Z power's website says that early bikes have a return spring with 3 coils. this has 4 so it is later - does that matter?
1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Offline hairygit

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #168 on: March 01, 2021, 03:20:07 PM »
It will almost certainly be an improved part to prevent similar failure in future.

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Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #169 on: March 01, 2021, 03:40:32 PM »
Looking at John Brookes' book, the answer is yes, it does matter - to incorporate the bigger spring, KHI modified the boss in the cases, and used a 6mm longer shaft, without changing its part number. measuring my spare it is the later type. I wonder if my faulty return spring is down to mixing and matching earlier and later parts, I won't know until I get it apart and find out what I have in there.
1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #170 on: April 06, 2021, 12:54:39 PM »
The whole job got held up because of the sticking gearchange, see the help thread for details of that.

Now that has been resolved and the trans cover, footrests etc are back on, time to make some progress with the rear end. I fitted the new BT46 to the rear wheel, which had been rebuilt by Hagons. I was surprised how quickly I got the tyre on, not Moto GP standards, but quick for me, using the right lube and experience helps (no smutty giggling at the back, thankyou). Here is the back wheel, a new set of damper rubbers and ready for the sprocket carrier.



With the sprocket carrier and rear brake fitted, ready to go in. although the first pair of locking tabs for the sprocket nuts were done with a hammer and screwdriver, after some thought I did the rest super neatly using a socket drive extension.



Wheel in place, at last the bike looks more like a motorcycle than parts of one. All went in straightforward, but I can't fasten up and get the bike off the box until I have the stoppers that bolt into the end of the swing arm (ordered from Z Power). The spindle has to come out one more time as the marks on the chain adjusters are in the wrong place, I didn't know there was a wrong way round for these until they were!



1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #171 on: April 12, 2021, 02:49:05 PM »
Back at it this weekend. The rear wheel spindle came out, then back in again with the chain adjusters the right way round. The chain was adjusted and the rear brake set up. I am short of the adjuster at the end of the brake rod but I'll use a 6mm nut until I know if there are other genuine parts to order, I can only see them for sale in the UK at Cradley Kawasaki.

Next up was the rear mudguard, which has been stashed in the attic since it came back from the chromers.A bit of a struggle but I got there in the end. The two allen screws holding the guard to the frame bracket are temporary, the 30mm x 6mm hex bolts supplied with the PMC fitting kit are 2mm too short, and dont go far enough to get the thread started. I have ordered some 35mm hex heads, the allen screws I used for now are too long, I have shredded tyres on overlong mudguard bolts before, its surprising how far a rear wheel can travel upwards on full bump. Grommets, tail lamp  wiring and the number plate stop are also fitted.



Next I'll probably do the rear indicators if I have all the right bits before I fit the tailpiece, but that also came out of the attic for a trial fit.



This is the first time I've seen all the body kit on the bike. It does look nearly there save the pipes, my missus thinks she will be going out any day now on the back. I tried to explain that fuel, oil and electricity all have to go in yet, including cutting pipes, setting float levels, getting oil pressure, checking everything electrical lights up or works etc, and general snagging, all of which are never as straightforward as you'd expect.

1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Online Laverda Dave

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #172 on: April 13, 2021, 10:40:17 AM »
It's very nearly at the finish line Mr Davo. Lovely looking machine despite no pipes being fitted.
1976 Honda 400/4
1977 Rickman Honda CR750
1999 Honda VFR 800FX
1955 750 Dresda Triton
1978 Moto Morini 350 Sport
1978 Honda CB400/4 'Rat' bike
1982 Laverda 120 Jota

Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #173 on: April 13, 2021, 12:54:57 PM »
Thanks, I'm thinking I might do all the electrics and fuel malarkey before it comes off the plastic crate, simply because its at a better height to work on.

Then I only have to add exhaust pipes, oil filter and oil once it's off the crate, plus sort out the dragging front brakes once the bike can be moved away from the wall and the front end can be jacked up with the bike on the centre stand.

Next are the rear indicators and mount the tailpiece properly, then the rear light. I've also been weighing up batteries, my other 2 bikes both have Motoblatt ones, although I did notice another brand of gel battery that looked a lot less yellow. Also I have to rebuild the fuel tap, I have an O ring kit ready.
1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Offline taysidedragon

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #174 on: April 13, 2021, 03:46:53 PM »
Thanks, I'm thinking I might do all the electrics and fuel malarkey before it comes off the plastic crate, simply because its at a better height to work on.

Then I only have to add exhaust pipes, oil filter and oil once it's off the crate, plus sort out the dragging front brakes once the bike can be moved away from the wall and the front end can be jacked up with the bike on the centre stand.

Next are the rear indicators and mount the tailpiece properly, then the rear light. I've also been weighing up batteries, my other 2 bikes both have Motoblatt ones, although I did notice another brand of gel battery that looked a lot less yellow. Also I have to rebuild the fuel tap, I have an O ring kit ready.

I saw an ad recently for a Motobatt option in black, so they are available.  I'll try and remember where I saw it. 🤪
Gareth

1977 CB400F
1965 T100SS

Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #175 on: April 13, 2021, 05:07:42 PM »
I've found a black Vertex battery listed by M&P, so I think I'll get that.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-Z-900-Z1A-1974-VP14A-3-Vertex-Battery-AGM-12V-YB14L-A2-YB14L-B2/383587457079



Having gone to all that trouble to make the bike look as original as possible, a huge shock of yellow when I lift the seat is to be avoided if possible.
1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #176 on: April 20, 2021, 04:20:18 PM »
This weekend I have practically finished adding parts, there is mainly setting up and snagging left to do, plus the exhaust and oil once the bike comes off the plastic crate that I've built it on. First I got the rear ducktail finished, stickered up and fitted, complete with tray, rubber and wiring diagram sticker. I also got all the rubbers and washers in the right order to fit the indicators, plus I swapped the pattern lenses for real Stanley ones.





I cleaned up and fitted the rear light, which is the real thing, and date coded March 1974, matching the swinging arm. I fitted a new stop/tail bulb, from a box of new bulbs given to me by a mate who allegedly half inched them from Greater Manchester Police when he worked there! The tanks and r/h side panel were removed for safe keeping while I do the electrics and fuel etc, wrapped and put back in the attic. Now all the electrical components and wiring are in place I fitted the new battery, to see what we've got. It wasn't so good at first. The console indicator light came on, and went out when I put her in first gear, so that's the neutral light in the wrong place. Also I had the oil light lit, the horn parped, and a brief poke of the starter turned the engine, but only for a second as there's no oil in yet.

That however was that, no lights or indicators at all! I was a bit hacked off about this. I never expect everything to work perfectly first time, but as all wiring and switches are brand new and connected up, I expected more, and was unsure what to try next.

Later I got curious about an unused yellow and black (earth) lead with a female spade connector, that pops out of the loom at the same place as the brake light switch wires. Its in the middle of the photo below, there was nothing at all obvious to connect it to, so I'd just left it.



Acting on a hunch I temporarily connected it to the the battery, and everything worked!!  :D I made up a lead with a spade at one end and a loop at the other, and connected it to the earth point on the engine. I crimped and soldered the joints, as losing your lights at speed is no fun at all, as I have learned by experience. Anyhow, I now have a full selection of lights, clock lights, indicators, plus brake and idiot lights. also the red brake lamp warning lights up when you apply the brakes. The lights go slightly dimmer when I turn the ignition on at the kill switch. Again, I don't want to check for sparks at the plugs until there is oil circulating.



The only issues to be sorted are firstly the neutral and indicator warning lights need swapping around, to do this I have to take the headlamp and clocks off before I can get at the console. Secondly, although I don't have a pilot lamp yet (on order) the headlamp lights up when the bar switch is in the PO position as wellas when it should. There's some funny business with blue wires from the switchgear that plug into each other, in an undocumented way, over and above the wires that use the white block connectors. I'm guessing that's where my problem lies, but I'll wait till I have the pilot lamp fitted before I start to play around.

Next I refurbished the (original) fuel tap, cleaning out the ossified seals and fitting new ones, plus giving everything a polish on the wheel. I'm going to check the float fuel levels next, I may try using the unneeded chain oiler tank as a temporary fuel tank and check the carbs a pair at a time, if I can fit the pipe to the carbs without leaks assuming the internal pipe diameter is the same (it might not be).
1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Offline royhall

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #177 on: April 20, 2021, 06:27:10 PM »
The only thing that connects to earth around there would be the starter relay that on mine had a tang on it for a female flying lead to connect to. Regulator and rectifier have the earth on multi blocks. That's the only three things near there. Long time since I built my Z1 so cant really remember what I did around there, but starter solenoid would be my guess. Is your solenoid an original Hitachi unit or some other make? It may have a short earth lead already soldered on with a male end.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2021, 06:39:13 PM by royhall »
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Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #178 on: April 20, 2021, 07:37:04 PM »
Both my regulator and rectifier are later updates with their own Earth leads (modified because the current was burning out connector blocks) the rectifier earth had a loop on the end which I ran to the engine earth. I’m guessing that other has hijacked the earth connection that lights would have used.

No worries, everything has an earth now.
1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Offline MrDavo

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Re: Z1 as a project?
« Reply #179 on: April 23, 2021, 10:37:25 AM »
The electrics are now finished, a much more straightforward process than I expected.

Yesterday a new headlamp rim arrived from Z Power, the correct US market type with the adjuster screw. After a bit of faffing I swapped my RHD Lucas halogen unit out of the old tatty rim and into the shiny new one. I also bought a genuine pilot light, I had to change one of the bullet connectors to fit it. I seem to be getting better at these, although I seem to get better results with the careful use of  long nosed pliers than using either of my crimping tools. I put the rim on the bike and tried the lights - they worked but I still had the headlight main beam coming on when the light switch was in the pilot light position. The fix is boring but I'll leave it here in case anyone else scratching their head finds it in a Google search.

I'd learned from John Brookes' book that the US Z1s didn't have a pilot light fitted. Comparing the US and European wiring diagrams I could see that while all the wires were there on both versions, the brown feed for the pilot on he US bike was disconnected, and instead the PO switch was connected to the headlamp via a blue wire, that was left connected to nothing for Europe. I can see that you really don't want to accidentally get darkness when you switch the lights on! As the replica looms and switches at least seem to come wired for all options, and I'd plugged all the blue wires together, the trick is to find which wire has to be unplugged to disable the feed from PO switch to the headlamp. A bit of trial and error and all was well, and even the pass switch works. Never had one of those before, like cruise control in my car, or the friction screw on the HD twistgrip, I'll probably never think to use it.

That's it for the electrics, although sparks and charging can't be tested until I at least have oil in the motor. Next up is take the clocks off again so I can swap the bulbs in the idiot lights, and some snagging with the back light mounting and rear brake rod. Then I'm going to tackle the next challenge - petrol!
1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

 

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