Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
As you suspect, chain is endless so needing to split cases to slide a new one onto crank is unavoidable. It's very low risk if you drop the chain inside, just don't rotate the crankshaft until you've fished it out again.Retiming is easy on these, with the top off the rockers are removed making no interference with valves and pistons possible. You can rotate the crank and camshaft till the cows come home to check you've got it set right. Only then do you put the rockers in their cover back on to "activate" the valves. Worthwhile checking with the cam cover off for chain wear though. Give it a lift at higher most point to see if the links lift away from the sprocket. It should have very little slack at that point.
Lots of people use the split chain for convenience. The disadvantages are not being as secure as an endless chain and not able to check the cam chain tensioner operation.If the primary chain has never been changed it probably needs doing now.
Some of the older (than this) engines routinely use a joined chain, although I believe with a specific tool to set them. Illustrative of potential if they're ok.I'm fine with hand peening to join things like final drive and mtb chains etc with no reliability problems. But, possibly irrationally, I still would choose continuous for cam chains as failure in any significant way will just make you weep with the distruction. Depends also how you look at the task of splitting to replace. I feel that's easier to contemplate than the thought of distruction and would thoroughly clean the outside first if you are not going for a complete strip. It's really just taking the bottom case off and undoing the rods, lift out crank and swap chains, then torque it back together. At those miles the primary will usually need replacement too, with the two contributing to how these engines sound when running well more than most components. I suppose I don't look at changing them whole as a chore, more that I feel it's nice to work on them.Julie's thread on rebuilding gives a very good look at making sure the tensioner works correctly if you've not already seen it.
Hi Ted, glad to hear your'e back on the bike! If you do choose to join the chain, have a look at mine to see how it came out. Having split my engine I can see the cases haven't been split before but the cam chain has been replaced. The image shows how badly it was done. My tensioner arm is also completely seized, however I think your engine is in better condition especially so if you were able to adjust the tension or didn't have a rattle in the first place.
The mechanics locally fit the cam chain and rivet it to endless Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
"What's the best way to seperate the head from the block without damaging any fins ?"You can try (if you've got something like the big flat tire levers) to carefully push that in to the root of the fins right by the gasket surface at each end, and gently twist them, not try to lever. It at least assessess (is that correct with more ss's than Mississippi? ) if it's going to move or be more reluctant. Once the gasket seal starts to come apart they are usually ok. It's not to use much force but more gentle encouragement at the right location, if that makes sense.
