Engine full of fuel and seized up

[PJM47]

These should not leak if the studs are sealed and the O'rings are up graded 

Trigger of you get a second would you be able to elaborate on what you mean studs are sealed? How would I do this? I have the upgraded O-rings now. Ta.

[Nurse Julie]

The head studs that can leak are the ones that the towers slide over and they have a  M6 washer and M6 nut. If the stud thread is not sealed with thread lock, oil can weep down the thread to the spark plug area.

[PJM47]

The head studs that can leak are the ones that the towers slide over and they have a  M6 washer and M6 nut. If the stud thread is not sealed with thread lock, oil can weep down the thread to the spark plug area.

OK thanks

[PJM47]

Hi folks
I’m getting ready to put the engine back in, I thought first I’d hook up
the oil tank and try to see some oil flowing. But I am struggling to get pressure, I am turning it on the starter, as much as I dare not wanting to damage it, and all
looks good but I’m not seeing much or any oil get to the top end.
I’ve read this is not unusual with air locks in the pump. But I am not sure now whether to just put the engine back in the frame and sort it later or persevere with it on the bench. Opinions vary on what do.
I tried priming the pump but its not really possible with the engine vertical for access. I filled the oil gallery and that didn’t help, tilted it to the side, didn’t help.

Any thoughts appreciated.

[MrDavo]

After a complete failure to get any oil pressure in my CB750K1 engine after I rebuilt it, a worried query on here sent me off to Boots to buy a tub of generic Petroleum jelly (it doesn't have to be Vaseline by brand).

I took the oil pump apart and packed it with the stuff, then tried again. Instant success! Oil appeared in the oil gallery at last, then in the cambox. I believe some old American V8s use the Vaseline technique as a matter of course to get their oil pumps started. The jelly simply dissolves into the oil, and wont damage or block anything. One wonders if Honda did something similar at the factory, I recall reading that they came primed with some sort of fishy oil that had to be replaced before use, the ex Honda workshop guys on here may be able to confirm that.

There was also a very sad thread on here from a member who put all his effort and money into a rebuild, then started his CB750 up without checking for oil pressure. the result was a beautiful rebuilt bike with a freshly ruined motor.    As I remember it he was too disheartened to pull the engine to do it all again, and sold the bike 'as is' for someone else to fix.

[Trigger]

As Oddjob says, pack the pump.
You should not try to turn the engine on the starter motor until you have oil pressure up or you will damage the shells. Lets hope you put bearing guard on the shells when yo assembled the engine 

[allankelly1]

After a complete failure to get any oil pressure in my CB750K1 engine after I rebuilt it, a worried query on here sent me off to Boots to buy a tub of generic Petroleum jelly (it doesn't have to be Vaseline by brand).

I took the oil pump apart and packed it with the stuff, then tried again. Instant success! Oil appeared in the oil gallery at last, then in the cambox. I believe some old American V8s use the Vaseline technique as a matter of course to get their oil pumps started. The jelly simply dissolves into the oil, and wont damage or block anything. One wonders if Honda did something similar at the factory, I recall reading that they came primed with some sort of fishy oil that had to be replaced before use, the ex Honda workshop guys on here may be able to confirm that.

There was also a very sad thread on here from a member who put all his effort and money into a rebuild, then started his CB750 up without checking for oil pressure. the result was a beautiful rebuilt bike with a freshly ruined motor.    As I remember it he was too disheartened to pull the engine to do it all again, and sold the bike 'as is' for someone else to fix.

Yes packing the pump with Vaseline is standard practice when building Rover V8 engines so the pump can prime itself


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[K2-K6]

As already noted above,  vaseline method is good.

Also if you want to observe for initial flow,  the pump goes straight to the oil filter housing which you can look at without the filter on to see if you've any output at all. As soon as you can see it coming through that pipe you know the pump head is operating and filled with oil.

If present there, it will have to fill the housing then go through the filter to enter the feed galleries via the centre of the bolt.

If you take the oil filter housing off and it's dry,  then it confirms the pump is air locked.

[PJM47]

Ok thanks, I did read about the vaseline truck but I wasn’t sure. Should I be able to get oil pressure or at least oil coming out the filter hole just turning it over on the starter? or am I better off waiting til I can fire it up properly.

[K2-K6]

You won't get pressure,  but it's got to go thtough there first to get to the rest of the engine.

So if nothing comes out at all,  then you'll never get pressure anywhere.

You've literally got to see it delivered through there,  then that confirms the pump is pumping oil.  Put the filter assembly back on and it should then fill and deliver through the whole system.

[PJM47]

Ok sounds like just a priming issue, I”ll put the engine back in the bike and then sort that, not much point doing it now and again when it’s fitted.

Ta

[K2-K6]

Usually once the pump has oil all the way through it then it just picks up ok even if supply has been interrupted. 

It's usually from empty pump and pipes to and from that it just won't suck.

[K2-K6]

Yes packing the pump with Vaseline is standard practice when building Rover V8 engines so the pump can prime itself


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A fine engine, one of my favourites. Have you an interest in them?

[allankelly1]

Yes

Built a Dax Rush with a 4l Rover V8 in

Engine built by myself and Dave Ellis and  as you can see was not in standard tune





Car weighted in around 650kg as a total kerbside weight as due to the the Rover being an all aluminium block and heads the engine only  weights in at only 212 kg for a 4L lump (around the same weight as a Ford 2L pinto) so nice power to weight ratio

Fun but needed to be respected as it could bite you in the arse in a blink of an eye

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

That's a Beast of a motor !
Back in the late 1970's a good friend of mine fitted his Ford Granada Mk1 with a Holley 4 barrel Carburetor fully upgraded rover V8 engine after extensive changes to the bulkhead plus fitting a Jaguar (IRS) rear axle.

It was a beast to drive and a tad happy at the back end especially in the wet.