1977 400F2 first restore project

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Do it. Avoid nightfall and mud. Have a mirror though as you'll need to look out for the rozzers.

Ah and forgot completely to mention no front brake fitted - all still in boxes with caliper dismantled test ride idea now not an option!

I carried out a COLD compression test this evening (with new gauge) all four were 110 psi.
The manual says 170 psi when HOT - can't see them rising by 60 psi though.
I guess tomorrow I will have to get it up to temperature and risk another burn mark in the process just to be sure.
After 12 years of not being run the valves will need regrinding at the very very least.

[smoothoperator]

Indicators working again, just needed a battery charge. Shiny bits; Sorry this is going to be a bit long winded. Because I had to replace the clutch casing, and the only one available has been chromed, and most of the chrome has peeled off, this has got me thinking about a few points regarding shiny bits. Also how much I don't know. I had thought that my original clutch case was chromed but now I believe it is actually polished aluminium. So then must be the cover on the other side of the bike which hides the starter motor and sprocket. Whereas the points cover is chrome plated steel? Same for the chain guard? This came to light when I asked for a quote to chrome my new clutch case, as it's obvious I can't shift all of the chrome off it. The chromer said he wouldn't chrome aluminium, but he gave me a quote to strip the chrome, £30, and also if needed, polishing for another £30. This seems the right way to go as mentioned above it would then match the left hand cover which, I believe is polished. So now I'm thinking, I have no idea what was standard for these bikes. Was it polished aluminium and chromed steel or some other combination. If you've managed to make sense of all this well done and thanks for reading. Any insights would be appreciated. Link to my existing shiny bits below. First image is the original clutch cover and second is the chromed replacement.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FQN5o5L5N3o9nGWa9

[Nurse Julie]

The main covers on the sides were bare alloy lacquered. Your 1st pic is just a polished cover, the 2nd pic is original with the lacquer knackered. Your points cover, chrome is correct, your other cover on the other side is correct, it's sort of a satin polished finish.

[smoothoperator]

Removed the headlamp reflector and glass as the reflector is corroded and needs to be replaced. Chrome rim is in good condition. Cracked the lens getting it out, the reverse process looks easier so I'll proceed with caution when I get the replacement and hope for the best. There was a thick layer of putty between the lens and the rim, is this typical?

Kill switch isn't working which is how I ended up in the headlamp, there is a bit of insulation tape damage so I'll look further into this tomorrow. Had a look at the handlebar end but taking that apart looks like a very fiddly job that I don't plan to do until I've looked more closely at the wire routing. Wires are going to have to come out of the headlamp anyway but no need to take handlebar unit apart if I don't have to.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If the lenz is seperate I have one for the cost of postage I plan to bin it as I have a complete unit I intend to fit. Just PM me if you are interested - the reflector is less than perfect but probably usable.

[smoothoperator]

Kind offer Ted but the lens and reflector are a single item. Also there is damage behind the bulb and the replacement I've seen on DS has a different bulb fitting which bypasses the broken part, as far as I can tell.

Headlamp Pics

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bJQ9FfSkVnHxFxPd7

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Ok that probably explains the putty !

[smoothoperator]

I've added 2 more images in the link previously of the headlamp rim which had one dent in it. I've managed to planish it out to a pretty good standard, well chuffed. Sorry to blow my own trumpet.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I've added 2 more images in the link previously of the headlamp rim which had one dent in it. I've managed to planish it out to a pretty good standard, well chuffed. Sorry to blow my own trumpet.

Nice bit of planishing there - my rim was far too damaged and rusted to repair - hence why I have gone for a new headlamp with different mountings courtesy of allankelly1 who I have shamelessly plagiarised from (with his help).

[smoothoperator]

Waiting for a few bits before I can go much further with the headlamp and left and right handle bar switches. Meanwhile I have taken off the pilot light case cover which has 1 broken lug whilst the other 2 are just cracked. I've trawled this site and found that KENT400 has repaired one of these using mouldable plastic and 2 part epoxy. As mine is in generally good condition I'll have a look at having a go at that. Also Ted has bought one recently and been underwhelmed by the quality and I also read trigger ran out of these in 2015!

Link to image of Pilot light cover

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5zqWy458wvbJVYBV8

[smoothoperator]

Found a post by Ashimoto, anatomy of a 400/4 horn which gave me the means to have a look at mine. Looking out for a new l/h switch at the moment as mine is lacking a horn button. So a natural step to have a look at the horn on the bike. Removed it and put 12V on it and dead as a Dodo. Measured resistance across the terminals and it was open circuit. Removed the crimped front part away from the main body to find everything inside looked like new, apart from the contacts which were heavily oxidised. I sanded them in situ as I thought lifting the upper bar up and across might damage it. Checked across terminals and started to show some resistance, can't remember the reading, bit more sanding and then test. Just holding the front cover on and applying 12V I now have amazing Mallard impression device. Bit more tweaking and now its starting to sound like a horn. Externally it's very manky however at least now I know it's worth resurrecting and it's one more part of the bike that can stay original. Felt a bit like a Frankenstein experience. To quote Ashimoto, "More power Igor".

Pics of Horn

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vkiiYBA7onCjZ7pe9

[smoothoperator]

Continuing the electrical theme, I thought I should add an image of the fuse box, sigh.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/a1kTapbnv5tG81fN7

[Nurse Julie]

Continuing the electrical theme, I thought I should add an image of the fuse box, sigh.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/a1kTapbnv5tG81fN7

🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 I just love people ingenuity when it comes to fuse boxes (or is it bodge 🤔). I'm sure it got the rider home though and that's all that matters.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Found a post by Ashimoto, anatomy of a 400/4 horn which gave me the means to have a look at mine. Looking out for a new l/h switch at the moment as mine is lacking a horn button. So a natural step to have a look at the horn on the bike. Removed it and put 12V on it and dead as a Dodo. Measured resistance across the terminals and it was open circuit. Removed the crimped front part away from the main body to find everything inside looked like new, apart from the contacts which were heavily oxidised. I sanded them in situ as I thought lifting the upper bar up and across might damage it. Checked across terminals and started to show some resistance, can't remember the reading, bit more sanding and then test. Just holding the front cover on and applying 12V I now have amazing Mallard impression device. Bit more tweaking and now its starting to sound like a horn. Externally it's very manky however at least now I know it's worth resurrecting and it's one more part of the bike that can stay original. Felt a bit like a Frankenstein experience. To quote Ashimoto, "More power Igor".

Mine came without a horn or any mounting bracket if there is one. That will be one of the last things I sort out.

Pics of Horn

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vkiiYBA7onCjZ7pe9

[smoothoperator]

Had the handlebar switches off, fixed the kill switch issue as far as I can tell at the moment. Replaced the left hand switch with a new reproduction unit due to the missing horn switch. Put the handlebars back on. Refurbished the horn. I need to replace the short green wire from the loom to the horn as it was open circuit at the spade end. This horn really doesn't want to work. On the hunt now for spade connectors and some 3 and 4 way connectors to complete the wiring up of the headlight, some of the connectors in the headlamp bowl are in poor condition. It was tempting to continue stripping the bike down but I have resisted. I'm learning a lot by putting things back together and I'm sure this will help later down the line. I've also been picking up ideas on engine rebuilds and in particular found a very entertaining Australian guy on Youtube who has detailed rebuilding a 350/4 which clearly shows just how much they have in common with the 400.