Author Topic: Caliper dismantle  (Read 453 times)

Offline AndyD

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Caliper dismantle
« on: October 15, 2020, 07:29:18 PM »
Hi,
I've got 3 calipers I'm trying to see if I can fix that came with the 400 and a couple of CJ250Ts in boxes and various states of ruin.
One is with Bryan who has very kindly offered to try fixing a broken nipple so hopefully that will work.
Number two has a broken nipple but with a fair piece still sticking out. I've tried a bit of local heat and soaking but still firm so I wondered if it's any use sticking in an oven for a while to expand the body and loosen the nipple or will the steel expand instead so heat needs to be on the nipple?
The final caliper it seems wouldn't let go of the pad so this has been chiselled away and a hole drilled in the middle right through the pad and piston! I was going to try a blind bearing puller first and again wondered if heat would help loosen the piston if bunged in the oven.
Any ideas welcome.
Cheers,
Andy

Offline Bryanj

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Re: Caliper dismantle
« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2020, 08:45:55 PM »
The one with stuck pad tighten the bleed nipple a d get a greas gun with adaptor removed and just screw into pipe fitting a couple of tirns(wont go any father as threads arnt exact) then pump out piston with greas gun, its messy but works---its what will happen to yours when the tap gets here.

Broken off bleeder get hot enough its uncomfotable to touch and spray with wd 40, do it outside if possible as it will smoke, repeat heat and wd a few times then hopefully it will undo

Offline mike the bike

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Re: Caliper dismantle
« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2020, 08:53:52 PM »
Use PTFE tape on the threads so it won't seize up again.
Where's that 10mm socket got to?

Offline Bryanj

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Re: Caliper dismantle
« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2020, 10:17:19 PM »
Was always standard in workshop to heat the caliper and use a long 8mm socket with tee bar to get an even torque on the bleeder

 

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