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Twisted fork

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marroinia:
Hi everyone!

As I was riding on a long straight road, I looked down at the top bridge and handle bar, and it seems that I slightly turn right to go straight.

So back home, I took two aluminium sections and used them as winding sticks. Eyeballing down on them, there is no doubt the wheel is pointing left, (or the handle bar is coming backward on righthand side.)

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I turned the tubes in place but nothing happened. I unscrewed the right axle holder and turn the tube, noticed no axial or radial move toward the wheel axle, same thing on the other side. As far as I see tubes are straights. Handle bar is brand new from DSS, no cracks in the bridges.

I unlocked the steering stem nut and top sides screws, tryied to move the thing and everything came in place, but when screwing everything tight the problem is back. Whatever I do.

Any idea someone, something I missed?

What is the way I'm supposed to tighten the top brige? stem first, then the two side screws or the other way?

Thanks for reading

Bryanj:
Leave everything tight and stand in front of the bike with a leg clamped tight either side of the wheel grab the bars tight and twist straight plus a bit to allow for springback

marroinia:
Nothing moves, even whith the stem bolt a little bit slacken, my knees are sore now ::) I try to fully turn on left to pull using the bottom bridge stopper on the frame, all efforts are useless...the winding sticks are saying it's twisted.

The mudguard is not very lined up with the wheel, it's obviously following the fork false. Can it twist the fork by itself and be the faulty one?

If I can turn a tube easily with no hard points and without slacken the other one then I know it's straight.

I don't think the iron bridges can bend, they will break before, could it be something normal for these 70's bikes to be a bit imprecise? Am I chasing ghosts?

K2-K6:
It's just possible the bottom triple clamp is bent so that the bores are not aligned.

You could try and drop both the stanchion down out of the top clamp to observe how they align when free from being held. That may give you an idea of geometry as they should just point to the correct place to go straight through.

Warning, it may be more of a task to get them back in if there's significant alignment present there.

marroinia:
ok I will try that,
I dropped them once to change ball bearings ( just the balls not the races) and I had to lightly tap the top clamp with a wood mallet to fit it back on the tubes, but it wasn't forcing that much.

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