Author Topic: Just one part left to remove from the frame Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr  (Read 455 times)

Offline Macabethiele (Ted)

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I've read previous posts on this conundrum so clearly removing the centre stand is always going to be difficult on a 42 year old bike.

Presently soaking each end with WD40 whilst I give it some deep thought - next might be my Calor Gas Plumbers Torch for heat.

Presumably I can saw throught the tube at the flanged end and it might come out without having to saw through the split pin end ?

Thus with stand off I can have fun with a long hack saw blade throught the tube !

http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,16469.msg138687.html#msg138687
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Offline mickwinf

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these are often seized in the stand, i ended up cutting through the tube at both ends so i could lift the stand off without bending the mounting brackets. It is then easier to get at and apply some heat and push it out, or even as i had to do on one bike, cut through the tube length wise with a hacksaw. good luck!
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Offline AndyD

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Ted,
I had exactly the same problem on the CJ250T and ended up cutting the tube both ends to avoid damaging the brackets.
The replacement pivot I got is solid rather than hollow and fits fine so at least there is a solution for the problem.
Good luck

Cheers,
Andy
PS I did try many approaches to loosening the bolt first as well as copious swearing but it wasn't giving in until the hacksaw came out!

Offline waffey

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had to cut my 1977 stand off.

I then tried to get the tube out by sawing through it, gave that up as I didn't have the patients for it. sourced a second-hand stand that was all freed upped, bought the new solid pin and installed that. jobs a goodin......less time sawing and swearing, more time drinking"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

to be fare I always way up time taken versus buying something after time is money.

enjoy the sawing!
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Offline Macabethiele (Ted)

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Well it took me about 30 minutes to get the stand off, heat did nothing so I cut through the flanged end of the tube first.
When it came to the split pin side it was difficult to get my saw in anywhere so I used a previously bent steel cutting cylinder in my drill. The cutter was a bit wider than the inside diameter of the tube so I just ground away until it left a very thin wall on the tube end section. I was then able to wiggle the stand out as the thin wall collapsed.

Just left with getting the remainder of the tube out of the stand section - now time to go back to thinking mode. Strikes me I need to perhaps get it pressed out ?
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Offline smoothoperator

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Sounds like a challenging job. Lots of posts on the stand being difficult. Nearly there by the sound of it though Ted.
Steve
2017 Triumph Bonneville T100
1977 Honda 400 Four

Offline Oddjob

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Just cut a slot in it with a hacksaw blade Ted, dismount the blade, run it through the tube and remount, as soon as the blade cuts through the tube the entire length the tube will collapse on it's self very slightly, it will then just knock out no problem. Same system works with swinging arm bearings although that usually needs a forward mounted hacksaw blade
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Offline Macabethiele (Ted)

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Just cut a slot in it with a hacksaw blade Ted, dismount the blade, run it through the tube and remount, as soon as the blade cuts through the tube the entire length the tube will collapse on it's self very slightly, it will then just knock out no problem. Same system works with swinging arm bearings although that usually needs a forward mounted hacksaw blade

I plan to do as you have suggested then probably use a threaded rod to get it moving initially.

Just need to keep the blade as level as possible to avoid cuttting into the stand though a little groove might help lubrication when it goes back together.
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Offline Oddjob

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You could do what I did to lube the stand pivot pin and mount a grease nipple on the stand. The stand tube is too thin to mount a grease nipple on so drill a 5mm hole in the middle of the tube, taking care it doesn’t foul anything as the stand would move up and down, thread the hole with a 6x1.00 tap, get a small 6mm bolt and thread on a 6mm nut and thread the bolt into the newly tapped hole. Tighten the nut down onto the stand so everything is secure and can’t move. Weld the nut onto the stand making sure to fill all around the nut with weld or grease will pour out of any gaps when the nipple is used. Remove the bolt and fit a 6mm grease nipple of whatever angle you think would work best, I used a 45 degree one but straight or 90 can also be used. It can help to file a small area around the tapped hole flat as the nut seats better and makes it easier to get it sealed better, not essential but can help.

Just use the grease nipple every year and the stand will never stick again, in fact it makes the stand so easy to move the bike just sort of floats onto the stand when used. I recently had to remove my stand after the bike had been stood on the stand for over 30 years without moving an inch, the pin just floated out with no effort at all, in fact I think I just pulled it out with my fingers.

Clearly do this mod before having the stand powder coated etc
« Last Edit: February 19, 2021, 12:38:05 PM by Oddjob »
Don't play stupid with me, I'm better at it

Offline Macabethiele (Ted)

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Just cut a slot in it with a hacksaw blade Ted, dismount the blade, run it through the tube and remount, as soon as the blade cuts through the tube the entire length the tube will collapse on it's self very slightly, it will then just knock out no problem. Same system works with swinging arm bearings although that usually needs a forward mounted hacksaw blade

So far so bad ! I tried some threaded bar and heat---nada.

I've done the saw cut and nothing has collapsed in on itself tonight. Started doing a second cut nearby to help the collapsing but its still solid. Too tired to do any more tonight - wish I had a 15 mm steel drill bit that would thin the walls somewhat.

I can see the temptation in buying a used stand that has been sorted !!
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Offline Oddjob

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Re: Just one part left to remove from the frame Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
« Reply #10 on: February 19, 2021, 11:23:09 PM »
If the bar hasn’t collapsed then there will be a section which isn’t yet cut through. Usually in the middle as you tend to angle the blade a little at either end, just keep the blade as level as possible and keep light pressure on it.
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Offline Macabethiele (Ted)

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Re: Just one part left to remove from the frame Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2021, 02:23:15 PM »
In the end I resorted to violence using a 15mm masonry bit with the SCS in hammer mode only it finally  let go! Thanks for the encouragement everyone!
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Offline K2-K6

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Re: Just one part left to remove from the frame Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
« Reply #12 on: February 20, 2021, 04:33:23 PM »
In the end I resorted to violence using a 15mm masonry bit with the SCS in hammer mode only it finally  let go! Thanks for the encouragement everyone!
I find this with most things that are well stuck or corroded.

Far from being the most brutal,  it seems just more insistent in applying vibration to the work piece and avoids the significant blows a heavy hammer will apply.

I've been using (by making up special adapters) this method for moving things in fairly light structures that I didn't want to damage.

Offline Bryanj

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Re: Just one part left to remove from the frame Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
« Reply #13 on: February 20, 2021, 05:03:04 PM »
A hot spanner is your friend in a lot of these cases



Oxy- Acetyleme

Offline Macabethiele (Ted)

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Re: Just one part left to remove from the frame Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2021, 03:44:35 PM »
This is a "Dead Pivot" as opposed to Parrot


Stand pivot tube by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
Honda CB400F2 under restoration
Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ
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Mercedes R129 SL500

 

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