Author Topic: Carburettor problems - Finally the solution! - A lesson for me and a long read  (Read 578 times)

Offline Charliecharlcomb

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Like many previous posters on the forum, I've had trouble setting up by 1976 CB 500 K1 after many years or sporadic activity/storage. It seemed that no sooner I had fixed one problem then another would appear, to a point where I was beginning to seriously fall out of love with a bike I have had for over 30 years.

Well thankfully that's all changed now.

To recap - my previous posts here and on FB had many helpful suggestions, mostly focussed on float levels which I had reset and then reset again when I hadn't done them properly.

Originally I'd thoroughly cleaned the carbs (only 8,000 miles NOS) and replaced all the O rings with a carb refurb kit as some had suffered from ethanol corrosion. As that didn't help things much I also decided to replace all the brass in the carbs with a pattern cardb refurb kit from fleabay.

A bit better but that was probably because I had by then fitted Dynatec electronic ignition and reset the tappets and cam chain and balanced the carbs.

The problem was the bike would start immediately with no choke and run beautifully until it had warmed up, when it would struggle and hesitate throughout the rev range, possibly running almost OK ¾ to full throttle. The plugs would be sooty pointing to too rich a mixture. Also it would start to pop and crackle with unburnt gases igniting in the pipes. Not good. I really didnt want to mess with jetting and needle heights, it just wasn't worn enough and everything is 100% stock, the problem must be in the setup.

After reading the Honda carb manual from the download section of the group I realised how important the relationship between the needle and needle jet were, and that they should treated as matched pairs (which it doesn't say). Also the easy starting from cold was a clue, it was as if the choke was on when it wasn't. Well I only changed the needle jets for the pattern ones, deciding to leave the original needles in place as it was a bit of a faff to change them. Also, the main jet replacement O rings I had fitted seemed slightly bigger than the ones on the pattern main jets from the kit which possibly made them not sit far enough into the carb body as designed.

That was my mistake!

Having progressively worked through every aspect of the carbs and taken them off more times than I could ever admit, I retrofitted all the original brass (jets etc.) and hey presto, it was brilliant! A long 50 mile run yesterday confirmed that, until I was stuck in traffic in town, when it started misfiring again. Once back on the open road it felt great again but by now I'm looking to get this perfect. One plug was sooty, all the rest were fine. I looked at the 4 pattern needle jets that I wasn't using and noticed one was slightly different. The holes in it were microscopically bigger (see photo) and the pattern needle didn't slide down into it as far and cleanly was the other three. I had only retrofitted 3 out of 4 needle jets.

So for what I hope is the final time for a while, I whipped off the carbs (10 minutes - a new pb) and replaced the needle jet for the sootty plug cylinder with the original, making a matched set and completely back to factory setting set of carbs. 20 minutes to replace them (those connectors to the airbox are always a fiddle) and after another test ride she runs perfectly with a set of four healthy clean plugs afterwards!

Phew.

So who knows if it would have been OK if I had replaced the needles as well as the needle jets, but I'm not about to try and find out. This has been a long a frustrating slog but now the bike has never run sweeter.

Not sure what the moral to this story is but I wanted to share it in case it helps someone else who like me was getting lost in chasing problems.

p.s. The original needle jet is the one on the right

Offline MrDavo

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Moral of the story is that kit carb replacement parts can be junk, keep the OEM parts if at all possible.

My CL450 project ended up going back to original jets and air screws as the only way I could make it run right, also see my Z1A project where I am replacing wrong sized kit float valves with genuine OEM. You can see why there's a market though, my knockoff float valves are £20 per set, genuine Mikuni an eye watering £180!!!
1969 Honda CL450 'Scrambler'
1974 Kawasaki Z1A
2005 Harley XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1978 VW Bay Window camper van

Offline 1234pot

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I guess you get what you pay for! I’ve also just been through the whole carb thing and come to the same conclusion as Charlie. (Ironically we have the same model) dodgy ebay kit. Oddjob called it....Leave the jets alone!
She now runs like a new bike. Happy Days!


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Offline Charliecharlcomb

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I guess you get what you pay for! I’ve also just been through the whole carb thing and come to the same conclusion as Charlie. (Ironically we have the same model) dodgy ebay kit. Oddjob called it....Leave the jets alone!
She now runs like a new bike. Happy Days!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Happy days indeed!

Offline philward

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Having just done a complete rebuild on my 500k2, I took Julie/Trig's advice and put all original jets, etc back in with Julie's upgraded o'ring kit. I had already bought a repo carb kit and comparing/mic'ing up the needles, I could see a significant difference. Had to fit the repo float valve into the original float valve seats though as originals were solid (since freed them off but weak springs). Only had it down the close so we'll have to see how the repo float valve perform on full road test when registration sorted.

Great post - thanks for sharing info to save members hasstle in the future
Current Bikes:-
Honda CB750K2 (1975)
Honda CB500K2 (12/1972)
Honda CR750 Replica (1972)
Honda CB350K0 (1969)
Kawasaki ZZR1100D3 (1995)
Kawasaki ZZR250 (1990) Project (Going on eBay ASAP)

 

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