Non standard headlamps and where to hide the wiring from within?

[billdn]

I'm slowly doing a cafe racer type rebuild- engine up and running! but have decided to use a twin headlamp set up instead of the original candle powered unit - but where to hide the wires that hide inside it, So 2 questions has anyone done it or got any ideas and/or would making my own loom using micro wire be a part solution- especially  to replace the headlamp wiring and switches?.
I've also changed to LED indicators so guess I'll need resistors to keep the original relay.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

When I had a similar issue on cars I use a small plastic box to hide the wiring in. A local shop sell various sizes with the top held on with four corner screws. I drill entry and exit holes using a rubber grommet to keep excess water out. As its a neat plastic box you can then fit it in a suitable place. I've epoxy resined a small plastic bracket so it can be fixed in place. I've even managed to put two relays in a box when I was wiring up DTRL,'s

[K2-K6]

At a cost, but certainly the Motogadget system effectively does this sort of thing.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

All electrical load handling for components is handled in unit with smaller command wires, and so more options potentially to relocate this somewhere discrete.

Or the concept at least could be partly mimicked to build yourself something suitable.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Neat looking gadget but you can't exactly hide the connections unless it has a screw on lid. My boxes cost a couple of quid in white or black. You can get them in alloy as well but more expensive. Available in several sizes.

I wonder is it fused - it has the look of the SAM units (Signal Aquistion Modules) that MB use on their cars.

[K2-K6]

Yrs Ted, the connection looks vulnerable to me too for bike use if you're going out in the wet

Posted because they've been used by others on forum for cafe type modified bikes previously,  it gives some idea if nothing else.

The OP problem is really just the mass of wires from connection of original fit "modules" that they have hidden in headlight shells as convenient space previously. 
In reality, only a few wires are needed if a design exercise is taken to replace rather than adapting original switch systems. There's only one positve needed if you can control locally with small relay for main, dip, side plus indication that's located there.

"it has the look of the SAM units (Signal Aquistion Modules) that MB use on their cars." That's probably their version, or description, of canbus in which they send just a single positive supply to each area (like a ring main) and then command the components by pinging code from central ECU to call status on or off. 
Also similar to ethernet over powerline data systems used in domestic router distribution.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Yes Ted,

"it has the look of the SAM units (Signal Aquistion Modules) that MB use on their cars." That's probably their version, or description, of canbus in which they send just a single positive supply to each area (like a ring main) and then command the components by pinging code from central ECU to call status on or off. 
Also similar to ethernet over powerline data systems used in domestic router distribution.

On the old Smart Coupe range of vehicles (owned by MB) the SAM units would let in water and cause some really weird stuff to happen - lights would come on when the wipers were selected etc it cost them a fortune in warranty repairs until the body seal kits were modified. Even the flagship Mercedes SL range that had the SAM units in the boot rear wheelarch area would be plagued with electrical issues as a result of seals leaking on the folding metal roof.  On the flagship E class models there  was an issue with engine ECU units  failing as a result of oil leaking from cam position sensors with oil being drawn by osmosis action several feet uphill along the wiring looms causing the ECU to be flooded in oil. That would never have happened with simple fuse boxes!

[K2-K6]

Side tracking off thread, but amusing story nevertheless.

A factory in our group of companies I often visited in Rugeley the manager of which had a new VW Passat (mid 90s) which often when parked at work along a row outside management offices, would have unexplained open windows and sunroof (all of them) at completely random times and obviously a problem when raining. It went to the main agent numerous times but never a fault was found.

Cut to a few years later and Mrs K2 got a VW as company car and which I was named to drive. Returning one day to home, had my hands full when trying to open the house door and heard this car behind me opening all the windows. Wierd I thought, then realised I'd been clamping the key fob in one hand while trying to hold everything with this initiating the opening.

And so through experimentation found that if you blipped and held the unlock it did indeed open all of the windows. Also the lock blip used the same closes them all. You can blip and open all on a hot day before you get in, blip and close them remotely if you've got out and wanted to lock but forgot a window was open etc etc.
Tried this on any VAG passenger cars and all do it that I've tried. Also a friends ford when on holiday,  and the same.  Virtually no one sermed to know this though of their own car.
Funny how things work out though by accidental finding

I think now that the factory manager was probably sitting on his key in his pocket that acted depending on how far away from his office window the car was parked and if it had pressured the open or close blip. 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Same on my Panroofed Mini when we had one - I would determinedly hold down the unlocking button in heavy rain only to have everything open - top & sides!!

As it didn't have leather trim it was soggy seats on the way home & trousers when I got in.

Sorry off topic!