It's very low risk from a lean-ness point of view as you are making small changes that have very little impact on full load running demand at which error can have significant effect.
There's a very good routine for setting and evaluation of idle airscrew adjustment in Honda's own manuals from this era (often overlooked or ignored) that will let you see what you've got.
Warm engine and set tickover on main adjuster to give smooth running (after setting airscrew to 1 1/2 out) then on one cylinder at a time wind the screw out while running until it reaches a peak rpm, any more lean it should start to falter on that cylinder and confirms you're too far. Then from that peak rpm setting, wind the screw in again very slowly to get a 100rpm drop, at which point you've put just enough fuel back into the cylinder to run it slightly on the rich side of true combustion equivalent.
Then adjust the overall tickover again with your main tickover speed facility and start on the next cylinder, repeat until finished and that will set the mixture competently.
As Julie indicated, you can end up with slightly different settings from carb to carb , but this is the true setting calibrated for each of your individual cylinders as it exists then.
If you want to record where each one ends up, that's the baseline tailored calibration for you engine.