Cam tensioner panic attack !

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

When I assembled the crankcase I pinched the tensioner rod back using the adjuster bolt so that the cam horseshoe arm was able to move freely, it was all good. ( Before fastening the crank case halves together I even tested it by letting the bolt go so it pushed on the Horseshoe the flat part of the plunger facing the pinch action lock bolt. The horseshoe arm was not fouling anywhere.) I had noticed that the top gallery bolt would only screw down part way when the retracted push rod was fully back. I checked that when the pinch bolt was released it allowed the top gallery bolt to fit. All good.

Today I released the pinch bolt expecting to hear the rod take up it's position by the spring action it did not seem to have really moved much but you can't really see anything - that said the gallery bolt did tighten down by hand so it must have moved a little.

Does this all sound normal - is there a simple way I can check that the system is working should I have released the pinch bolt before fitting the tensioner blade or cylinder head?

I have a feeling I might at least have to take the cam cover off to test it in some way.....please not another Ground Hog event - I have this empty feeling in the pit of my stomach - at least posting this has helped me a little.

Advice and platitudes all welcome.

[Laverda Dave]

That sounds normal Ted. The tensioner will not move much when the spring rod is released and you will have to have exceptional hearing to hear the spring moving a few mm to tension the horeshoe within the confines of the crankcase. Dont forget the cam chain is also new. If you are worried take the rocker cover off to check but honestly it sounds fine.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

That sounds normal Ted. The tensioner will not move much when the spring rod is released and you will have to have exceptional hearing to hear the spring moving a few mm to tension the horeshoe within the confines of the crankcase. Dont forget the cam chain is also new. If you are worried take the rocker cover off to check but honestly it sounds fine.

That is a relief - as it happens I also wear two hearing aids.lol

I know it has moved a little as the top gallery bolt fits as it should so nice to have your thoughts - I guess occasional pangs of doubt is par for the course on a major rebuild.

[Bryanj]

The rod does not move much for the blade to adjust quite a bit Ted

[Sesman]

Hi, Ted. I had the same heart stopping moment with my 550. New chain and new tensioner. I released the bolt and the bugger didn’t move. All is well though…phew.

How’s the build going?

[400 Cafe Racer]

The rod does not move much for the blade to adjust quite a bit Ted

Hi Ted,

Just started mine up Saturday after the rebuild. As others have said, with the new chain there is virtually no slack to take up when the tensioner bolt is released.  I did double check mine after sorting out smooth idling on a warm engine,
1. by marking with a dab of paint where the head of the lock bolt is when "locked",
2. then releasing the lock with the engine idling, to let it settle and adjust itself,
3. then relocking the bolt to the painted mark (so you don't screw it in too far to bend the arm)
4. then finally tightening the locknut gently to lock the tensioner bolt.

I'm sure you will be fine, just a few deep breaths and carry on mate.

Dennis

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Hi, Ted. I had the same heart stopping moment with my 550. New chain and new tensioner. I released the bolt and the bugger didn’t move. All is well though…phew.

How’s the build going?

Generally it's all going well thanks - it never dawned on me that new cam chain, new tensioner blades & the adjustment would be pretty minimal in terms of bolt adjustment movement.
Great to hear that its a shared experience. I was well stressed / panic mode /sleepless night   - not what I need at my age.lol

At present I've just painted the filter housing complete with one damaged fin - then after oven bake I can attach to the engine & fill with oil before I adjust the tappets. I like the idea of oil everywhere when I do the tappet adjustments - I shall be putting the new oil in from the cam cover top to let it trickle down.
I'm presently multi tasking with new wheels from Central Wheel Componenets that need new bearings & a front wheel retainer ring also rebuilding the rear foot rests.

My thoughts are to attach the carbs, then the air box, then the filter  /battery holder before fitting the rear mudguard & wheel. I have this daft idea that it might be leasier building from the engine backwards as it was a dificult skin grazing job when |I did the initial fire up last year.

Once the above are finished I'm going to fit the wiring loom as a nice winter project. I think realistically it's going to be Feb/March before I attempt an engine start with a flexible plan to ride the bike in the spring of 2022 - all plans subject to change & set backs.

I shall sleep soundly tonight thanks to those who have replied - you know who you are.....

[Sesman]

Excellent plan regarding the carbs. I did the same, but fitted them with just the rear long mounting bolt allowing me to pivot the engine forward. Care is required not to damage the down tube paint….bollocks.

I,d also ensure the filter to carb trumpets and secured first, before fully seating the carb to inter trumpets. It’s just a matter of 5mm or so, but it makes the difference….just my opinion.

Stick at it Ted.

[Sesman]

Hi, Oddjob. That’s exactly what I did. I was paranoid about those oil jets. Unfortunately I hadn’t fettled the alternator case and clutch housing at the time so I had to button her up, fill, test and then drain. A right faff and a lesson in pp planning, lack of patience and over enthusiasm. All worked out ok though as the oil flooded in after a dozen kick starts and a 2 second prod. Magic.