550 F2 started!

[Oddjob]

You want me to hang fire on posting the bits Roo, just in case you’ve fixed the problem?

[Laverdaroo]

Yeah, gimme a couple of days(evenings), to poke it all together.  Just sent you an email with some video attached re idler. Have a gander.

There is a float on it but only when apart. It sounds sweet to me when spinning both power on and powering off. The only thing I found was a bit of detached felt from that washer stuffed into the end cap which was metal coloured so never saw it, surely it wasn’t that?.  That shouldn’t have been there so hoiked it out and bobbed some ZX1 friction eliminator in the felt washer to soak in before reassembly. There’s a short clip of the end float an I’ll bob that over also if you wouldn’t mind having a look at that too?

Sorry to be a pest kid, just reassurance on things I know nowt about is a right help.


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[Trigger]

Don't worry about the end float, the shaft moves in and out on every Sohc starter motor that has been in my hands 

[Laverdaroo]

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[Laverdaroo]

Well, spinning on the screwdriver, no noise at all. Tested it 30 plus pokes at the button up to 10 seconds or oil pissing over the top, whichever came first. Still reading on the starter clutch. Spins beautifully one way but not the other, why Parp on shut down?……

A fat ‘mull’ and a chew  required.


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[Laverdaroo]

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[Oddjob]

You could try using a piece of wood/plastic to stop the starter gear from moving, start the engine on the kickstart and see if it spits out the wood due to the sprag clutch engaging with the starter gear when it shouldn’t be. If the gear is spinning with the engine I’d say that means the sprag clutch is either broken inside or it’s sitting at an angle which allows it to grip the body where the rollers sit and thus spin with it.

Moving a starter motor shaft by hand requires some effort, they don’t spin free at all. So if it’s being spun by the engine when the engines in motion there is clearly something wrong going on inside there.

If it doesn’t spin then I’d say fixing the starter motor should solve the problem. Even if it only cures it for a year or so it would be worthwhile as that allows the primary chain to slacken off a little, I’d imagine disengaging the chain from the gear on the hub would be very difficult when it’s brand new, that’s of course referring to the keyhole method of removing the primary hub.

I’d agree on the end float question as well, they all have some.

[Trigger]

You are over thinking the starter motor, It turns easy between the thumb and finger with the only resistance being the brushes contacting the commutator.
Once i have checked the insides of a starter motor, i just test it by earthing one of the long screw on a car battery and touching the live wire. It will start spinning with a it jump in your hand. If it spins fast and only a slight whirling noise, it is fine 

[Laverdaroo]

Yeah,Graham if you read, the starter is fine it’s the starter clutch under investigation/under question as a result of fault funding. The starter is tested and is all good and refitted on the engine, as written last night


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[Trigger]

Sorry, missed that bit, you are working too fast for me  Starter clutch is easy, just fit a new kit as, it is hard to sort out what is worn if, you don't have a new set to compare. That is if you never fitted a new kit when you first built the engine 

[Laverdaroo]

I was out til 2am fiddling. That and excuse of roaring jaw ache meant no sleep for me so better off doing something. Cam is back in to test then I’ll put the lid back on and try to fire it and see if I can replicate the issue.

New ball bearings, springs, circlip, new rubbers the lot went in when the motor was apart. There’s very little that was off the old motor internally!

It’s the fact that I went in there that points as a possible culprit, still not convinced but I’ll have a gawp when I get home. Just struggling fitting a security door for a pal. It’s got 8 drop/shoot bolts on it, 200mm thick and is well over a hundred kilos!

Sodding thing, I’m waiting on reinforcements as I don’t think Charles Atlas would shift this sod you’d have to have muscles on yer ears……..bloody hell!


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[Oddjob]

Just thought I'd let you know that did a little bit of work on restoring the tank badges last night, just did the back of the badge to see how it came out and made loads of mistakes BUT the result was still promising. Did a little research and hopefully I know how not to make the same mistakes for when I do the front.

Early days Roo but I'd say this may turn out very interesting, especially for 550F owners as it was the gold part of the badge I was doing last night. Watch this space.

[Orcade-Ian]

Ken,
I tidied up my original badges - gold was acceptable to start with, so only the black needed doing but I just looked at the badges that came with the spare tank and they are quite a bit bigger. Pins still same spacing - so what model might they be off?
The spare tank I'm using had a different flap too - with a slot to trap the filler cap whereas the original had a cap with a hinged lever.  I ended up making a ring that goes around the filler hole (not present on spare tank) and aradited it on prior to painting so it looks stock.  Hadn't realised there had been so many variations.

Ian

[Oddjob]

Usually have the model number embossed on the reverse of the badge Ian, have a look. Might be 750F2 as I seem to recall they had the same black and gold badges.

Just done the front of the badge, needs another go though. Looking ok at the moment, test will be when the white and black go back on though. I also intend to lacquer the result so as to help it cope with the weather etc.

[Laverdaroo]

Just having a bit of a nanny whilst making an exhaust bracket for the new end can and just had a quick bob round making sure things are tight and in the right place and all that like yer do.
 When upon tightening the exhaust nuts, or just making sure after running for the first time the other day, one sheared off……..at about 81/2ft/lbs!!!

Nothing really and definitely not tweaked. I had enough thread on it to get an abstract or on it and pull it but noticed two things;

Firstly, lol at the centre of that
Secondly, sitting next to a Honda one on the left you can see the shoulders are a lot different too and deffo NOT OEM, me thinks.

I’ve checked them all and four of the eight are the same.

I bought 8 from DSS, 4 of which were in Honda bags and four in a zip bag with the Honda part number on a printed slip inside.

On the paperwork it states 8 x (said pt no) so a call to them in the morning to ‘discuss’ I feel is the way forward

More to the point if any of you have bought any from there just have a look and make sure they’re the longer saddled ones that are the OEM chaps

The others are knackered in the middle……



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