550 F2 started!

[Laverdaroo]

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[Laverdaroo]

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[Oddjob]

Roo looking at those pics IF the funnels went onto the carbs fully the dome nut would hit the choke mechanism stopping it working.

It also looks like the funnels clamp onto the tube causing the problem, maybe try releasing those little grub screws and moving the funnels forward and then clamping them back up, try that and see if it solves the problem.

I'm not keen on those boxes BTW, the idea is that the funnel gives an airtight seal OR the carbs will pull air from anywhere, if that means it pulls air from any gaps between the funnels and the carbs it will mean unfiltered air is getting into the engine and that causes wear your not going to like. How tight are they onto the carbs? maybe try a small piece of rubber around the carbs if there's a gap.

[Bryanj]

Looking closer i think the inner bits are held tight into the outers by the smaller grub screws in which case you could remove theouters and shorten the inners

[Laverdaroo]

Yeah, they are Bryan. They come apart pretty easily but not that impressed with the fittings. All the machining is spout on bar the fit but the grub screws are crap.

I’ve taken half a mil off the inside to get em to go on with some Abram et cloth hot glued to a soft buffing wheel I’ve got for the drill. Worked a treat. I’ll put the miss fit down to yer man over the pond, knocking his dial on the lathe. Easy done but what a ball ache!

Bigger o rings installed to reduce air leaks if any are tempted but I might get em tigged together to be sure at some point, dunno.

Anyway, they’re in snd they fit.

Best job, callipers to clean and get sorted….

Onwards and onwards……..


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[Laverdaroo]

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[Laverdaroo]

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[Laverdaroo]

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[Oddjob]

Those domed nuts look very close to the choke lifters, have you checked they don't foul.

[Laverdaroo]

yep, all clear, it's the angle of the photograph. I had to file down the choke lever by a couple of mil also to get it to operate without fouling. All good and happy.....ish with the fit on the table, it'll be a different scenario when trying to get em on this good on the bike but I'm planning on a dry build anyway so we'll see. Happy for now. Ended up making a shouldered screw up for the balance bar and it works a treat. Just bobbed it in with a bit of thread lock to be sure.

Miss my bench lathe though, all this faffing about is knackering my fingernails yer know

[Sesman]

Looking really smart, Roo.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

All looking good now Roo panic phase over!

[Laverdaroo]

Cheers fella's, theyve been a bit of a pig but kinda enjoyed the head scratching.



Just not the polishing!
 

[Laverdaroo]

Reeto, cheers Phil


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[Laverdaroo]

Right, after a day of groaning and more Anglo Saxon vocabulary muttering, I managed to get all the frame mounting bolts free from the engine and strip all the crap off the old frame ready to get the lump out.
All were ok but very much ‘in there’ and I got through a gas bottle in the plumbers torch and several ‘tapping sticks’ were employed in the removal of the swines!
Even with my heaviest ‘tapper’ the swing arm pivot bolt is very firmly and quite adamantly, ‘staying put’  which is a little tiresome.

I’m going to pop the lump out tonight to allow better access to the bleed nipple and try to get it out so I can fire some penatrant down its neck straight onto the inner tube and see if that frees it with some more heat and ignorance………..keep yer posted!


What a manky, greasy, uncared for motor, nothing has yielded without a fight and that’s with absolutely drenching it in plus gas for a month, every day.

The comparison of before’s and after’s are going to promote a smug grin come the time.I reckon, really looking forward to getting on now. Bar a couple of bits I’ve all I need for the rebuild so it’s strip, blast, paint and build

So far, out of everything that’s been attempted, no bolts ‘necked’ off as yet with just the swinger to get out and the top n bottom yolks to whip off. (Not ‘triple trees’! Wtf?

The swinger bolt has about 90 degrees of travel currently after being persuaded with a large lump of timber but the bolt moves with the arm so I guess the tube inside is solid to it as there is no lateral movement at all.

As a worst case scenario if replacing the swing arm bushes and caps, which I am, is it possible to run a metal blade in between the frame and face edge of the bearing cap that sits in between the arm and the frame? The frames junk so not precious about saving it. I figured if not I’ll just cut it off and see if I can get it pressed out………..it’s proper in there. If it’s anything like the front lower mounts as shown, I wonder if they’ll shift at all. This one over an hour to get out!


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