550 F2 started!

[Laverdaroo]

Ken, these are the shots I’ve been trying to send, FYI……..


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[Laverdaroo]

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[Laverdaroo]

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[Laverdaroo]

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[Oddjob]

First off, have you checked all the threads? no point in restoring them if one is stripped and whilst you could helicoil it as it's the brake anchor points you need to ensure it's a really good job if you needed to do it.

Secondly, need some measurements. Overall length, top edge down to the bottom where the studs fit. Also distance between top edge and upper bolt hole for mudguard.

Thirdly, I can see some sort of marking near the anchor point but the pics won't enlarge so I can't make them out. Can you read them?

[Laverdaroo]

Got a quick meeting then I’ll have a look and forward them over on here bud


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[Laverdaroo]

Right here we go, all the marks I can find plus dims etc…. You can see where some oaf has had them burning in the wire wheel at some point.

Expensive build isn’t the phrase for it Ken


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[Laverdaroo]

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[Laverdaroo]

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[Laverdaroo]

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[Laverdaroo]

Just spotted, the left lower, shagged.

Cheque book out again it seems, bloody hell!


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[Oddjob]

Sorry Roo but just checked the fork stanchions I was going to get hard chromed. For some unknown reason someone seems to have taken an hacksaw to them or maybe a thin grinding blade like off a Dremel. It's about 1" above the point where the bottom yoke would clamp and I'm thinking the breakers the forks came off cut the fork ears off for some reason and weren't too bothered about the stanchions being damaged in the process. Both stanchions show the exact same mark in the exact same place, so just above the small skirt that the fork ears have on the base. One is slightly deeper and longer than the other cut, the cuts themselves aren't that deep and the metal is quite thick and it's possible that the hard chromers, who grind off the surface and then replate back to over thickness and then grind off again to normal thickness, could get rid of the marks but I'm loath to take a chance on what is an essential part of the bike safety. I doubt they'd snap but can we really take that chance?

Just checked my sliders, all 3 sets and they all measure 3550mm top to bottom and 1150 from top to the top of the thread hole, so looks like they are correct. Some good news at least.

[Laverdaroo]

OO,bugger thats a bit of a swine but I'm like you Ken, not the forks, not worth it. The crap  mystery ones that I have have exactly the same marks on and I came to the same conclusion as you have regarding cutting bits off and missing with the disc cutter!
Thanks for having a look for me though, good man yer.
I rechecked all the threads and they're all a go, just a sod about that lower as I'm not sure if it can be repaired. Under closer inspection, its been like that for a lot of years and the corrosion is right into the metal so I'm wondering if it'll just pop and fart if they try to tig some material to it to try an reshape. I'll have to see what I can find out but a bit disheartened this evening. Especially after gettimg a close look at the fork bottoms Serves me right forbuying a shitter

I went for a restorative mooch about on the VFR today and to stretch me legs and thought, " I wonder when the MOT is due, I'll have a look when I get home ".  18th of May...........eek! 

I've got his lot to sort out before then so all next week I'll be head down sorting her every night!          I've been hoarding it all for ages so it's time to get it on as the rear brake has gone really spongy after several fettles and Im pretty sure I have a leak somewhere although theres no loss of fluid. The lines are 20 years old and I suspect the age might have caused a small crack somewhere.
They're notoriously a bugger to bleed and fit but I'm not to phased, its just a process and I've done it a few times now to have the job sorted but reading up, I realise the changing of the lines is a right bugger, 8 hours in the manual...gulp!
Ive a set of stailess goodridge going on to start and a different swing arm that has a slightly better set up than my 2002 unit. Just means maintenance is easier as they have a habit of siezing up and are a pig to shift so Ill bob that on with a freshly rebuilt shock from the states.
Nobody would rebuild them over here and say it cant be done. This chap rebuilds, recharge, sorts all the remote out and rebuilds it and then fitts a spring to suit your weight......spot on. I just bought a shock of a wreck over there, shipped to him from a breakers for free, he fettled it and sent it to me...........Superb result.

Bit to be doing mind !

[Laverdaroo]

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