When is a motor not worth working on?

[Sesman]

Oh, piston rings?

There are of cause lots of risks to consider too…….

Good luck with the build.

[Bryanj]

Doubt it will need rings unless broken or out of spec and op did say top end had been done

[Sesman]

 ::)Indeed he did…oops.

[alexdecker]

Ok, so when I get in there, assuming I don't need new bearings for cam shaft or transmission, do I just let them sit in there when cleaning the engine up, and then grease them before assembly? Can I clean the transmission assembly without taking it apart?

Also, when the engine is taken apart - what are some good tips for cleaning out the cogs and innards, and also the case, both inside and outside? I don't want to vaporblast it I think - I don't mind the worn look too much. But I would like to clean stuff up as good as I can while in there.

- Alex

[alexdecker]

Also, Primary Drive dampeners is this part, right?

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-european-direct-sales_model17122/rubber_23114323000/

[Bryanj]

Yup, still available to order from your local dealer which saves postage, maybe a short wait as not long ago i had all uk stock!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Ok, so when I get in there, assuming I don't need new bearings for cam shaft or transmission, do I just let them sit in there when cleaning the engine up, and then regrets them before assembly? Can I clean the transmission assembly without taking it apart?

Also, when the engine is taken apart - what are some good tips for cleaning out the cogs and innards, and also the case, both inside and outside? I don't want to vaporblast it I think - I don't mind the worn look too much. But I would like to clean stuff up as good as I can while in there.

Lifting out the gear shaft on my 400 was easy again how far you want to go in stripping down a gear cluster is down to what you find once inside. I found petrol was very effective but did use Evaporust to remove some surface rust on some internals.

I took lots of photos to help with re-assembly - my only regret is I did not do more written notes alongside the pics as I did forget quite a lot of stuff. For the 400 there are some good U-Tube videos that I used as a sort of revision lecture - when I was confused I asked questions on this site.

- Alex

Out of interest when I did my rebuild I did not do any soda blasting.  On the outside I washed with petrol using a paint brush, then paint stripper with some fine Wet & Dry paper to remove the darker oxidation being careful to not go onto any contact surfaces. I used Petrol to remove oil film stains stains on the inside of the casings with some more stubborn staining being removed with either brake cleaner or nail varnish remover. I did paint the exterior casing parts rather than polishing as per original Honda.

[alexdecker]

Ok, so when I get in there, assuming I don't need new bearings for cam shaft or transmission, do I just let them sit in there when cleaning the engine up, and then regrets them before assembly? Can I clean the transmission assembly without taking it apart?

Also, when the engine is taken apart - what are some good tips for cleaning out the cogs and innards, and also the case, both inside and outside? I don't want to vaporblast it I think - I don't mind the worn look too much. But I would like to clean stuff up as good as I can while in there.

Lifting out the gear shaft on my 400 was easy again how far you want to go in stripping down a gear cluster is down to what you find once inside. I found petrol was very effective but did use Evaporust to remove some surface rust on some internals.

I took lots of photos to help with re-assembly - my only regret is I did not do more written notes alongside the pics as I did forget quite a lot of stuff. For the 400 there are some good U-Tube videos that I used as a sort of revision lecture - when I was confused I asked questions on this site.

- Alex

Out of interest when I did my rebuild I did not do any soda blasting.  On the outside I washed with petrol using a paint brush, then paint stripper with some fine Wet & Dry paper to remove the darker oxidation being careful to not go onto any contact surfaces. I used Petrol to remove oil film stains stains on the inside of the casings with some more stubborn staining being removed with either brake cleaner or nail varnish remover. I did paint the exterior casing parts rather than polishing as per original Honda.

Ah, thank you for this. So you cleaning up the inside with petrol as well? Did you tape over ball bearings and such, or did you have the engine stripped down completely? Obviously petrol will evaporate, so there shouldn't be any reason to worry about petrol getting into small crannies and nooks on the inside of the case, eh?

[Bryanj]

If you want to clean the cases you need to remove everything WARNING make sure you know exactly where each main brg shell is fitted as the markings on them mean nothing and you are looking at well over £100 just for the shells plus the cost of measuring the crank

[Oddjob]

And when removing the gearbox ensure the end gears and roller don't fall off the shaft.

[alexdecker]

And when removing the gearbox ensure the end gears and roller don't fall off the shaft.

Interested in as to why?

Also, because I kinda don't wanna buy new bearings if I can avoid it, but also don't have a slide hammer, are there any alternatives in cleaning the engine, where I can leave the bearings be?

[Bryanj]

Cos its a bugger to pick up all the bits!

[Oddjob]

You don't need a slide hammer, to remove the primary shaft leave a footrest on the footrest hanger bolt and use that to screw into the end of the primary shaft, using the footrest you can get the primary shaft out easily.

If your not prepared for the gears falling off it's easy for it to catch you unawares, one of the needle roller bearings has the bearing loose inside, the other uses a cage to hold them, if the loose bearing falls off it's a bitch to find them all. Also easy to misplace some of the thrust washers that fall off at the same time.

[alexdecker]

You don't need a slide hammer, to remove the primary shaft leave a footrest on the footrest hanger bolt and use that to screw into the end of the primary shaft, using the footrest you can get the primary shaft out easily.

If your not prepared for the gears falling off it's easy for it to catch you unawares, one of the needle roller bearings has the bearing loose inside, the other uses a cage to hold them, if the loose bearing falls off it's a bitch to find them all. Also easy to misplace some of the thrust washers that fall off at the same time.

Thank you, that foot peg tip is quite a useful hack I've noticed people taking these engines apart, usually use a slide hammer to get these bearings off (outlined in red on attached picture). Is there an alternative way of getting them out, or am I getting a slide hammer? I can't really picture how the foot peg trick will get the whole thing out actually. Do I just pull really hard and hope it isn't stuck? Also, will I damage these bearing getting them out either way, or is there a way to get them out without ruining them? Is there any other bearings that will pose me any problems?

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

And last one - I see a lot of cir clips in the bottom end. Can I reuse them, or is it best to replace them with new ones when taking the engine back together again?

[Sesman]

I stripped my motor with no special tools,other than using the footrest mount bolt dodge. Leave the alternator rotor on until the moor is split than use judicious blows with a piece of wood and heavy hammer or similar to remove it. ;

Of course, there is no substitute for the correct tools….or is there.