CB550k1 US Import - UK registration

[Laverda Dave]

Got my forks back from Dynasurf - 4 week turnaround but they look mint!
(Attachment Link)

Going to work on rebuilding the rear wheel and try my hand at truing the wheels this week.

Following that I want to get tyres fitted then get the front and rear suspension mocked up for fitment and this is where my next question comes in.

Been looking at rear shocks and plenty of options out there. I did see TEC adjustable shocks as being well regarded here on the forum, but I've contacted TEC and they won't be making these anymore. Any other suggestions? Ikon, Hagon?

TEC seemed to be well priced but Ikon and Hagon options look to be a lot more expensive in some instances.

Oh, and the 48mm circlip 9452148000 for the oil seals in the forks - mine are in bad shape and need to replace them. Does anyone know the correct thickness for these?

Thanks!

Try this guy, he was the south east agent for TEC and had a number of pairs for sale at Kempton Park the last time I saw him.
His contact details are David Hunt, 01932 786030 (evenings and weekends or leave a message).

[juitz]

 
[/quote]

Try this guy, he was the south east agent for TEC and had a number of pairs for sale at Kempton Park the last time I saw him.
His contact details are David Hunt, 01932 786030 (evenings and weekends or leave a message).
[/quote]

Thankyou! Will give him a try.

[juitz]

Hi all,

 I'm starting to rebuild the forks but am a bit unsure about the seal and circlip install in the tubes.

Basically I have a big gap. I've seen one vid that has a spacer, but the exploded parts list for my model on cSMNL doesn't have this? I can't find a spacer in the parts bin and I can't remember one been there when I took it apart.

[Bryanj]

Replacement seals are thinner than the original but all seals are so tight in the sliders they will never move anyway

[juitz]

OK thanks Bryan 👍

[juitz]

Hey all,

Aside from chopping up a perfectly good front fender, does anyone have any suggestions for a shorter front fender?

Seen a few aftermarket ones online but all in the US and/or out of stock.

Would rather keep the original fender to be honest, either as sspare or sell it on to someone who could use an original part (one of the only useable bits that came off the bike!)

[Bryanj]

Whatever you fit you need the brace between forks of something as good to stop twisting

[Lobo]

Ref your above post on ‘the big gap’ I’ve just rebuilt my CB750 forks and indeed there’s a substantial washer sitting tightly atop the seal, and under the circlip.

I could never question Bryan’s knowledge, but have used compressed air to blow these seals out (via the drain holes)…. would compressing the stanchion not be doing the same and thus unseat the seal?

[Bryanj]

Lobo, never tried using air, usually have the slider off the stanchion to do seals, compressing the fork would only work if you filled the leg completely with oil.
Those seals are usually so damn tight in there it takes a big lever to shift them.

[Oddjob]

Can you still read the markings on the new seal? be interested to see what they are and you can check them against the Honda specs to see if they match. Not keen on that gap TBH.

[Lobo]

Cheers Bryan. You’re likely right; the seals I popped, with the stanchions in place, were pattern if I remember correctly; and one weeping at its perimeter. I cleaned the seatings and reseated them with a sealant. (OEM seals in now) (it took 40-50psi on my foot pump btw!)

Surely though there is a (safety?) consideration upon compressing the forks with only an interference seal? Whilst the oil may not ‘hydraulic’ against the seals there will be a rising air pressure - though I’ve no idea whether the psi would be significant. It does beg the question though as to why Honda bothered providing a circlip? (and washer on the ‘750)

All said, I can’t question your experience versus my thoughts!

[Bryanj]

Think of it as all brand spanking new, it might be possible for the seal to move. Newer forks have air pressure in them, usually less than 10psi.
On an asside when i was in the trade i reckon over 50% of leaking seals were from where they had been replaced and the inner of the slider(outside of seal) had been scored by a big screwdriver or sharp lever in which case carefully remover sharp edges and fill the groove with rtv and hope you dont have to remove the seal again.
Used to remove power steering box shaft seals by connecting a power pack hydraulic pump to one unit with a blanck on all others, used to take about 300psi to pump the seal out

[juitz]

These are the seals I purchased - no equivalent Honda part number though.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391988989263?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7Iy1D4TNQ3u&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=eMi7QkCfTHq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[Oddjob]

So size stated, can you read the size on the top of the seal?

[juitz]

So wanted to post first pic of my build progress now that I have made some progress!!

Not sure if I made the right choice with alum front shocks and black rear shocks, but hey, if i dont like it will give me something to do after it's finished!
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It's slow progress as I keep finding bits that need replacing that I haven't ordered, but its coming along.

Next up are getting tyres installed on the wheels and then I'll start the electrics.

I have a question on the lower Mounting bolt for the rear suspension. It's only a M10x32 bolt through the bush? Again, can't find anything in my dismantle pics or the build diagrams that say otherwise?

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Cheers!