Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
Personally, I’d be trying to keep the wiring as close to standard as possible - it simply avoids headaches down the track. It also allows you / any subsequent owner to revert to OEM equipment without any worries at any time.If I remember correctly, the CB400 has 3 fuses, inc a 7A fuse on the Taillight circuit. DON’T use 3A wire into this circuit, as if there is a short your new wire will begin to smoulder / smell / spoil your day long before the fuse blows. Ie use wire > than the fuse in said circuit. (It doesn’t matter if you use LEDS or not… a short circuit will basically connect the live wire directly to earth… and you need the fuse to blow FIRST)You might instead change the fuse in question to a 3A …. if so make sure you know what else there is on that circuit and whether this is a viable option - I can’t remember.Finally those new connections. ALWAYS put the shrouded Female on the supply (battery) side of the connections, and the bullet towards the component (ie bulb). In this way, if a connector undoes, the jiggling (live) female side will not short to the frame / Earth.
Never put "jiggling" and "female" in the same sentence Lobo, it conjures up too many images.
Jiggy-jiggy….. ah the memories 😂.Yep Ted, the summation of all currents in the circuit will go through the fuse, and blow it if greater than its rating. Nevertheless, if a full-on Earth short occurs in the tail lamp (as in this thread) wiring, then this new wire will have to locally cope with all that current. Ergo, you don’t want to install wiring anywhere in the circuit less than the rated fuse value. (and if insisting on smaller value wires due bulkheads / apertures etc consider fitting an inline smaller fuse within that section)
I then wonder why a fuse does not light up like a bulb - maybe it does just before it blows!