Is there an easy way to test for charging ?

[Oddjob]

I've got an old gearchange off a 400 lying around waiting to be experimented on Ted. Can't believe the amount of play in the rose joints, both have around 3-6mm of play. I'm going to replace the rose joints with better ones, replace the rubber boots with new, refurbish the gear lever and the mounting part and have it rechromed to see how it looks after.

If it looks ok Ted I'll let you have it for road testing if your up for it. Nothing worse than pulling the old foot up to change gear and you end up lifting the entire foot off the footrest because there's so much play in the linkage. Really bad design by Honda, simple lever like the 500 would have been much better.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I've got an old gearchange off a 400 lying around waiting to be experimented on Ted. Can't believe the amount of play in the rose joints, both have around 3-6mm of play. I'm going to replace the rose joints with better ones, replace the rubber boots with new, refurbish the gear lever and the mounting part and have it rechromed to see how it looks after.

If it looks ok Ted I'll let you have it for road testing if your up for it. Nothing worse than pulling the old foot up to change gear and you end up lifting the entire foot off the footrest because there's so much play in the linkage. Really bad design by Honda, simple lever like the 500 would have been much better.

Well that's a coincidence the none DS gearshift lever I have  is rather inadequate.  I might have to put my old one back on as it wants to catch the rear suspension shaft end bolt thread. I've tried a some different rod adjustment lengths and moving a spline but its not great.

So yes I'm up for testing - if its better than what I have I'm sure we could arrange an adoption fee. Thanks Ken

[Oddjob]

It's hitting the swinging arm pivot bolt Ted? Jesus, how knackered is that?

Been many a year since I worked on a 400, can you put a pic up of the arrangement Ted so I know what I'm looking at. I can't seem to visualise what it's hitting for some reason.

This is the 1300 gearchange after I modded it. 2 new rose joints with oiling points under the boots, new phosphor bronze link shaft, new stainless steel locknuts on the shaft, one left handed thread. Anti tamper stainless steel torx bolts in case anyone took a fancy to it  Not shown is the new Phosphor bronze pivot bush



The 400 one should look similar, same rose joints, same boots but I can't get the bronze linkage bar made as a mate did a few of those for me and he's since left the firm he made them at. The 400 linkage bar is really small, only about 60mm end to end. That bar is 100mm so too long, shame as I have a spare.

Oh a top down view of the gear lever would help Ted, I think the lever is bent where the gearchange rubber fits, need to see how a straight one looks so I can reshape it back to original spec.

[Bryanj]

Those regulators are pretty bomb proof Ted, normaly takes a lump hammer to damage them! Nothing electronic inside just coils, resistors and points which dont mind reversed voltage.
As an asside the only difference on a 500/550/750 one is the angle the terminals point at

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

This is the replacement unit I bought from Bertums as my old lever was well rusty.

This is to show the bottom where it touches the end of the thread of the long shaft - it clears the nut but just touches the end thread. Second photo shows the clevis pin that it just misses now I have fiddled with the adjustable rod. Even the new ball joints seem to have a lot of unnecessary movement before they do anything. It was a lot cheaper than the DS replacement so I've part learn't my lesson

IMG_20220421_190009 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

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IMG_20220421_190017 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[TrickyMicky]

Looking at your photo, the arm from the rear rose joint to the 'toe' part is in one piece in a straight line.  If you look at the pics on David Silvers site, note the pattern and original show that arm as being a separate piece welded further outboard so as to clear that nut and stud. Your new one is not very well designed, sorry mate. Whichever one you fit, get hold of an aerosol can of spray grease with a nozzle and fill the rubber boots on the rose joints. I have always done this and am still using the original gear lever set. Have fun, Mike.

[Oddjob]

That's the bottom engine hanger bolt Ted.

On the 500 that bolt is threaded both ends, could be the same on the 400. In which case loosen the nut on the gearchange end and take the bolt further through the frame by tightening the nut on the brake lever end. That should stop it hitting.

The linkage rod is nice, looks like phosphor bronze. Doesn't loom a lot like the original lever does it. Looks cheap and nasty to me, doesn't even have the alignment dot in the lever to match the gear change spindle. Can't understand why with new rose joints there is so much play.

You still got the old original lever?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Yes I have the original lever Ken it will be in my box of bits that I have replaced.

Yes it is threaded at both ends - never thought about just moving it across a bit - Ill give it some looking at, obvious now you mention it.

[Sesman]

Something weird about that lever. As standard the long part of the lever sits outside the gear shaft fitting. Also I think that the gear shaft fitting needs rotating clockwise by about 30deg until the bolt is horizontal. This may require some further adjustment of the rose joint bar.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Something weird about that lever. As standard the long part of the lever sits outside the gear shaft fitting. Also I think that the gear shaft fitting needs rotating clockwise by about 30deg until the bolt is horizontal. This may require some further adjustment of the rose joint bar.

The second photo is misleading as it looks as if it's close the the lever on the shaft, if the shaft lever is rotated further clockwise then the heel of the foot lever strikes the clevis pin on the footrest.

I have the pedal adjusted now so I can select all the gears but the play in the new ball joints seems excessive for new joints - I probably should have bought the DS one but it is expensive at £70 ish.

[Johnwebley]

I had a similar issue with my RD125 gearlinkage,


I found double ended rose jointed shaft available at your local computer based auction site,

Totally improved the operation and feel.

Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk

[Oddjob]

The problem John is how to attach them to the lever parts. After experimenting with the 1300 lever I found it was quite easy to lock up the rose joint as the side and middle of the joint were held against the lever. This just freezes it in place, yes it still moves but it wears very quickly as it's not free to move and is essentially forced to by foot pressure. The other problem is finding a bolt that is secure and won't rattle off , I seem to recall my solution was to have no nuts involved at all, both ends are like button caps. They are actually spaced away from the lever by a gnats whisker.

They really need protection boots fitted as well or they get full of dirt etc not an ideal placement where they are, loads of stuff getting flung around that area.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

That's the bottom engine hanger bolt Ted.

On the 500 that bolt is threaded both ends, could be the same on the 400. In which case loosen the nut on the gearchange end and take the bolt further through the frame by tightening the nut on the brake lever end. That should stop it hitting.

I've done as you suggested - and moved it a few threads along so no longer a danger of catching the shaft end threads - I was tunnel visioned that the threads had to match on both sides.

[Oddjob]

I don't think it would have mattered on an OE gear lever Ted, but needs must when it's an aftermarket one. Not exactly like you look at both sides at once anyway.