400/4 build. Paused due to other commitments. But starting up again

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Your Jeep is a car and not a sohc Honda 

Car, Bike &  House electricity works pretty much the same on all applications. Electricity is not brand aware it's only electrons having a shuffle.

[Trigger]

As i have already mentioned Ted. I tried and it did not work, and that was with a new loom and everything with replacement new wires.
My experience is my experience of LED.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

As i have already mentioned Ted. I tried and it did not work, and that was with a new loom and everything with replacement new wires.
My experience is my experience of LED.

I accept that was your experience Graham but that does not make others with positive experiences any less valid.

A Honda sohc has what 12 volts DC flowing down a wire can't see how that differs from from any other automotive set up.

[Trigger]

As i have already mentioned Ted. I tried and it did not work, and that was with a new loom and everything with replacement new wires.
My experience is my experience of LED.

I accept that was your experience Graham but that does not make others with positive experiences any less invalid.

A Honda sohc has what 12 volts DC flowing down a wire can't see how that differs from from any other automotive set up.

Ask that question to Ash. He is the electronic professor that had to build a box of tricks for two little LED lights to work. I am just a simple Honda engineer 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

As I said previously I have never had a problem with good quality LED on old wiring looms.

[Bryanj]

I have found that vehicle led bulb standards vary a lot, i have had 501 replacements in both orange and white where some only work one way round and others work both ways round, i have had led headlamps last for years or hours

[Oddjob]

I've done hundreds of LED conversions in cars, my Astra G had a dash with over 300 leds in it, all blue and reds, it looked like a space ship in the dark. Depending on the colour LEDs have different voltage needs, reds take less volts than white for instance, IIRC a red is 1.2v and a white is 3.3v, so it's not a case of one size fits all, they need to have a resistor fitted to reduce the voltage down to what the LED actually needs, they are also prone to voltage spikes, so the best solution is to either over resist them or even better fit a voltage stabiliser, which I'm fairly sure is what Ash made It provides a constant set voltage, making it ideal for LEDs and making them last longer. Any spikes are absorbed by the circuitry in the box, I used to over resist mine, however when voltages spiked at over 15.5v as they often did even that can get tested to the limit. Over resisting also meant they weren't as bright as they would be with proper resistance but there's always a down side to all solutions.

A good LED these days will actually be soldered to a small PCB, micro small in fact. The resistors and surge protection will on the board, the better the board, the better the LED as a rule. Good boards cost more than bad boards, hence the price difference. Buy good LED bulbs and they'll last, get bad and they may or they may not. When an LED starts strobing you know it's on it's way out, replace before it goes completely.

If you want them to last buy LED bulbs which use SMDs not LEDs, SMDs are surface mounted diodes and are usually much more robust then LEDs, your cars dash is normally SMDs, you don't see them going much do you? Whereas high level brake light repeaters like on the tailgate are normally LEDs and you often see one or 2 of those not working on older cars.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I have found that vehicle led bulb standards vary a lot, i have had 501 replacements in both orange and white where some only work one way round and others work both ways round, i have had led headlamps last for years or hours

I agree with you Bryan for the lucrative aftermarket there were/are lot of cheap but unreliable LED's on the market that is price driven.

The headlamp bulbs in our previous Jeep (WJ) had built in cooling fans, iirc they were not polarity specific. Essential that there was plenty of space around the headlamp fittings - an area quite limited on bikes.

[Laverdaroo]

So anyway, Andy what you been doing to the 400 over the last couple of days, you had those cables off yet and the carbs checked and made sure they’re all set right. The mixture screws won’t effect the high reviving much but a contributing factor in the mix no doubt. I still think it’s the cable operation personally. I could bob over tmrw eve if you’re a bit stuck and suffering from ‘snow blindness’……….it happens.

Keep us all up to date bud.


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[ComfySofa]

Yep - sure - ill try disconnectng the throttle cables tonight and see how it runs...

[Oddjob]

I'd try rerouting the cables, didn't really study the pic before but your running another type of throttle grip and to me I think it would be better to raise up the MC, run the cables below or in front of the MC. Also check the wiring routing on the PDI instructions for the 400, throttle cable routing is vital to getting a decent tickover, far too many are routed wrong and that causes friction in the cables, they don't return as they should and you can get that hanging idle effect if it's really bad. A little silicon oil down the cable inners will help a lot as well, even new they benefit from some oil but it must be silicon oil.

[ComfySofa]

Hey. Done a bit more tonight....first and foremost the throttle cables arent the issue. If i disconnect them completely start the bike and move the carbs with my hand they do the same thing so ive put them [the throttle cables] back on but made extra sure [bit of adjustment] that theyre free and moving, and there is slack at the carb end.

On the plus side i got the banjo bolt and the bolt for the lever for the front brake so thats bled and now working. Also worked out how to get the dummy lights working and the backlights for the clocks as well...some of the bulbs are dead but ive got the [shudder to say it] led ones on order....so quite sure i can finish all the electrics from a connectivty point of view.

Might need someone better than me to examine the carbs [Roo] nudge nudge....

[Laverdaroo]

Th
Hoping to have the lump out of the viffer tonight so gonna have a night of Thursday. I could bob up then for a twiddle?

Can’t believe you said the L%D word

Let me know old froot…


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[Nurse Julie]

Have you checked the fast idle linkage thats attached to the choke, not the main idle adjuster. With the choke off fully the fast idle adjuster should have clearance of 0.012 inch. There is more detail in the manual.

[ComfySofa]

Have you checked the fast idle linkage thats attached to the choke, not the main idle adjuster. With the choke off fully the fast idle adjuster should have clearance of 0.012 inch. There is more detail in the manual.

No idea what your talking about! I'll have a look at the manual....Im pretty sure I've got nothing that measures in inches! Down that fine!....as I say nothing I've attempted carb related has never turned out well...it usually ends in fuel going everywhere! Many thanks for the pointer though gives me something to look for!

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