Author Topic: Tips on installing swingers shock mount bushings and needle bearing conversion  (Read 1154 times)

Offline alexdecker

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Hey all

Just my swingers (and the rest of the frame) back from powder coating. I need to install the shock mount bushing. The old ones were such a pain to get off, so already fearing getting new ones on. Any advice for that? I have zero special tools - only a cheap vice and basic tools. No press.

Also, I got a needle bearing conversion kit as well. Any tips or advice on installing that?

- Alex

Online McCabe-Thiele (Ted)

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For the metal/rubber bush I put mine in the deep freeze for 24 hours having greased the hole - I used a big rubber mallet to knock it most of the way in.  The last couple of mm I used some threaded bar with nuts & big washers.
Not done needle rollers mine were the the brass bush replacements from NJ.
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Offline Oddjob

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As Ted says, freeze the parts, if possible warm the swinging arm as well, maybe stand it out in the sun (if it ever comes out that is).

Buy a long 10mm threaded stud bar, make sure it's longer than the swinging arm pivot tube AND the needle roller, thick washers and just pull the bearings into position, use a good fitting socket afterwards to sink them into the arm. Same trick with the rear bushes, they are easier to get in than out, if the stud bar is long enough you can pull them both in at the same time. . Protect your new paintwork from the washers by using some rubber etc underneath, something like a folded piece of inner tube.
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Offline alexdecker

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Thanks for the advice. I just realised that the powdercoater did not cover the shock mount bushing holes or the hole for the needle bearing. The painting seems quite thick. I think that's gonna be a problem… :(

Oh well - sanding is a nice way to spend ones time I guess…

Offline Oddjob

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Try a sharp blade first. sometimes you can just peel it off.
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Offline alexdecker

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My Tourmax needle bearing conversion didn't come with any seals. Just the roller, needle bearings and end caps. Does anyone know how far into the swingarm I am supposed to sink the needle bearings, since it doesn't seem like I need room for seals?

Offline alexdecker

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As Ted says, freeze the parts, if possible warm the swinging arm as well, maybe stand it out in the sun (if it ever comes out that is).

Buy a long 10mm threaded stud bar, make sure it's longer than the swinging arm pivot tube AND the needle roller, thick washers and just pull the bearings into position, use a good fitting socket afterwards to sink them into the arm. Same trick with the rear bushes, they are easier to get in than out, if the stud bar is long enough you can pull them both in at the same time. . Protect your new paintwork from the washers by using some rubber etc underneath, something like a folded piece of inner tube.

Could I potentially use the bolt I already have for attaching the swingarm to the frame, and just fill the remaining space with washers to make it fit? Or will I remove the bolt and threads etc?

Offline Oddjob

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You could use the swinging arm bolt but you'd need a lot of washers.
Kids in a the back seat cause accidents.
Accidents in the back seat cause kids.

Offline alexdecker

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As Ted says, freeze the parts, if possible warm the swinging arm as well, maybe stand it out in the sun (if it ever comes out that is).

Buy a long 10mm threaded stud bar, make sure it's longer than the swinging arm pivot tube AND the needle roller, thick washers and just pull the bearings into position, use a good fitting socket afterwards to sink them into the arm. Same trick with the rear bushes, they are easier to get in than out, if the stud bar is long enough you can pull them both in at the same time. . Protect your new paintwork from the washers by using some rubber etc underneath, something like a folded piece of inner tube.

Doing this today. But how in the world do you make it go in straight? Every time a put on a little pressure, the stud bar moves a bit off center, and the bearing gets out of a straight line. Got it in a little bit now, but it got crooked and stuck.

Any tips?

Offline alexdecker

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Okay, never mind. Drove them in there, but can't get the collar through, so obviously twisted them when installing them. Which sucks.

I wonder if I can just hammer them out and put in bronze collars instead? As the needle bearings are ruined now :(

Offline Oddjob

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Both ends that you can't get the collar through? Any visible damage to the bearings. I suspect you may have collapsed the roll cage due to hitting it, you can't drive them in, they must be pressured in.
Kids in a the back seat cause accidents.
Accidents in the back seat cause kids.

Offline alexdecker

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Both ends that you can't get the collar through? Any visible damage to the bearings. I suspect you may have collapsed the roll cage due to hitting it, you can't drive them in, they must be pressured in.

I did the threaded bar trick and pressured it in as straight as possible. Think you are right about the collapsed roll cage. So not straight enough I guess.

Can I substitute the roll cages with the bronze bushings? Or does that require a completely different collar?

Offline Oddjob

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Did you try doing both rollers at the same time? You could try emailing the manufacturer and explaining the problem and seeing if they'll sell you another pair of roller bearings.
Kids in a the back seat cause accidents.
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Offline Bryanj

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Different collar( standard Honda)

Offline alexdecker

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Did you try doing both rollers at the same time? You could try emailing the manufacturer and explaining the problem and seeing if they'll sell you another pair of roller bearings.

Just ordered a new set, and will hand the swingarm to a mechanic with a press for them to do it, as to not waste any more money on it. The threaded bar also snapped the end, so I must've done something really wrong. I hope he can get them out again. They are pretty solidly stuck in there.

In good news, the swingarm bushings went right in no problem :)

 

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