Teds new project a CB500 K1 mostly version 0.5 circa 1972.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

What or who is BiL

Cheers

Dennis

Sorry Brother-in-Law (BiL)

[mickwinf]

I had real trouble on my 550 removing the taper roller bearings as there is no space to get a long drift to knock them out, the bearing is the same diameter as the housing. In the end i had a mate put a bead of weld around it and it just fell out. Same problem now with Lazarus.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

The manual states there are 6 bolts on the top half of the casing I have 6 holes but only 5 bolts so either one is missing or there its a dowel in its place - position is circled in blue?

What is the big bolt head with a built in tab please?


.Top casing bolts by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Oddjob]

Big bolt is the gearchange selector drum retaining bolt. It was used on early models to aid positive neutral selection.

The one circled is one of the 6 bolt holes and uses a 6 x 100mm flanged bolt.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Big bolt is the gearchange selector drum retaining bolt. It was used on early models to aid positive neutral selection.

The one circled is one of the 6 bolt holes and uses a 6 x 100mm flanged bolt.

Thanks Ken - a missing bolt then - no problem. Next I need to dismantle the primary gear drive as it's nothing like the 400.

Time for me to read the manual again in detail - so far I've just removed two circlips & the gearshift levers - that's it for today - need to keep the right side of Wendy on her only day off in the last 6 days.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

And the casing has been separated a tad ahead of schedule.
A bit of a wrangle getting the primary shaft out of the casing but managed in the end with minimum violence.



.2nd October 2022 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Oddjob]

People seem to think that to replace the primary drive rubbers you need to remove the 3 large countersunk JIS screws but in actual fact you don't. As soon as you remove the circlip it will come apart.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

People seem to think that to replace the primary drive rubbers you need to remove the 3 large countersunk JIS screws but in actual fact you don't. As soon as you remove the circlip it will come apart.

Noted Ken along with your other words of wisdom.

[Sesman]

Sharp rap on a piece of softwood will separate the primary drive to access the rubbers. This is where it gets interesting as many report the rubbers as being as hard as marble, but my 1977 17k miles example was as soft as originally installed, which is by the way not ‘soft’, just ‘compliant’. I replaced mine anyway as a matter of course. They ain’t cheap. That primary drive looks past its best by the way…..

[Bryanj]

Less than £50 for the Kawasaki one its change it anyway

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Although it's clearly not the original there was a fair bit of play in the primary chain - I'll defo replace it.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Less than £50 for the Kawasaki one its change it anyway

Anyone got the Kwaka part number handy please?

[Oddjob]

92057-1011

[Sesman]

I’d replace it Ted, but before you do try to evaluate the actual wear. This photo provides a simple visual check. The one in the background is a new Kawasaki item, the one in the foreground is 17k miles.

If you do replace the chain it would be useful for you to post a similar comparison just out of interest.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

92057-1011

Thanks Ken.