Getting back to my Honda

[Oddjob]

Engine to frame would be my guess Bryan. One of the engines I recently bought in the job lot has both front bolts stuck and both underside also stuck. I was trying to get them loose when I spotted someone had snapped a cylinder stud, N/S/R and in order to get the remains out of the cases they'd cut across the gasket surface and fitted a slightly bigger stud. I threw the cases away after seeing that, I tried to salvage the rest of the studs but they refused to come out even with a LOT of heat.

BTW, the engine bolts wouldn't come out either, ended up drilling one out but it drifted a little, I was looking at how to fix that when I spotted the stud. Combination of both of those was enough for me to give up. Sometimes you're just flogging a dead horse.

[Tomb]

Do you mean the bolts holding engine to frame or bolts holding cases together?

Not the cases together.

The front bolts in the cases that hold the triangular frame brackets. The bolts are solid in the captive nuts in the cases, if I turn the bolts and the nuts turn with the bolts will the nuts break the cases, when using a long breaker bar?

I have snapped the head off one, so only one bolt to go before engine can come out, and even that one is only holding the triangular bracket, the M8 bolts are out of the frame.

[Tomb]

A bit of love needed for sure. Have you tried Plus Gas penetrant oil, its absolutely spot on. Some of the mount bolts and case bolts were practically welded onto my 550, a 24hr soak in that and a bit of heat and not broke and all came out without necking off.

flea bay number 202951224018
EAN 5010352802202

I was surprised how good it is, worth a go if youve heaps of stubborn ones to do Tom.

Tried plus gas, WD40, diesel, heat, big breaker. I’m going to spread the nut with a sharp chisel next.

Thanks for all replies chaps, even if I’ve already tried most stuff, one reply I might not have. The encouragement is great too.

[Oddjob]

Yes, the casing are likely to break if too much pressure is applied. Even an impact gun refused to move mine. I had some luck doing this on one of my engines, I drilled a 3mm hole in the casing above the bolt, I then fed penetrating oil down this hole for some time, this method allowed the oil to go inside the corrosion and slowly get it to release. I then filled the hole in with epoxy and painted over it. It can take some time to work, mine took around 10 days before the bolt would move.

[Tomb]

Engine to frame would be my guess Bryan. One of the engines I recently bought in the job lot has both front bolts stuck and both underside also stuck. I was trying to get them loose when I spotted someone had snapped a cylinder stud, N/S/R and in order to get the remains out of the cases they'd cut across the gasket surface and fitted a slightly bigger stud. I threw the cases away after seeing that, I tried to salvage the rest of the studs but they refused to come out even with a LOT of heat.

BTW, the engine bolts wouldn't come out either, ended up drilling one out but it drifted a little, I was looking at how to fix that when I spotted the stud. Combination of both of those was enough for me to give up. Sometimes you're just flogging a dead horse.

Not quite so desperate as I have another engine to go in, but I would like to rebuild the original later so it would be nice to get it apart without breaking anything

[Tomb]

Phew!! I haven’t worked this hard since I had a job 😂 [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[Tomb]

Just wiring compatibility between K3 motor and 500 motor to work out before pulling the wiring, it was a mess when I got the bike in the eighties which I repaired with terminal blocks (to my shame)

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[Laverdaroo]

A bit of love needed for sure. Have you tried Plus Gas penetrant oil, its absolutely spot on. Some of the mount bolts and case bolts were practically welded onto my 550, a 24hr soak in that and a bit of heat and not broke and all came out without necking off.

flea bay number 202951224018
EAN 5010352802202

I was surprised how good it is, worth a go if youve heaps of stubborn ones to do Tom.

Tried plus gas, WD40, diesel, heat, big breaker. I’m going to spread the nut with a sharp chisel next.

Thanks for all replies chaps, even if I’ve already tried most stuff, one reply I might not have. The encouragement is great too.

Bigger hammer and more consise Anglo Saxon then!

[Tomb]

 

So far not much swearing and surprisingly all knuckles intact 

This bike was my winter bike, my daily ride to work, it’s going to be used similarly when up and running again, and may be used for work if I get a job, the way prices are going up I may need to. Early retirement (forced) is ok but doesn’t pay so good

[Johnny4428]

That studs and bolts are making you work, but you are getting there.

[Oddjob]

Phew!! I haven’t worked this hard since I had a job 😂 (Attachment Link)

Well done, not all of them are as cooperative.

[Bryanj]

Wiring is same unless its a VERY early 500 with round pin block connectors

[Tomb]

Thanks for the encouragement chaps, and info Bryan. I’m guessing it’s a later 500 motor as the cases are the shape as the K3. From what I can see of the 500 wires which are badly discoloured it looks the same. I have the rec/reg from the donor frame/engine so can sort it.

[Bryanj]

Early and late rectifiers look different but wiring is same and they work same, only difference is fuse/switch wiring if you use loom, switches and electric panel all from same bike you will have no problems

[Tomb]

I’ll link the K3 engine wiring into the original wiring, as you say it looks the same. I’d already wired a none standard rectifier in years ago, but retained the original mech regulator.

The new engine is now bolted in the frame using lots of copperslip, this took a while as the crash bars weren’t too straight when taken off (small off in snow saved by the crash bars).

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

I have the exhaust to weld up and fit, carbs to fit. Loads of other jobs later on like recover the seat etc.

I know it’s not in the same class as the work you lads do, but I’m really enjoying doing it. I’ve done prize winning restorations in the past, but there’s something nice about not having to worry too much about chipping the paint or is this bolt shiny enough to use.