polishing thread?

[Sesman]

Hi, Matt. How,is that described if I want to order some? Thanks in anticipation.

[Matt_Harrington]

I think you will find them by doing a search of 'oxide polishing wheels' or 'scotchbrite wheel'
Here is one example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125377926786?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338703918&toolid=20006&var=426392177624&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1ejGfgvdbT_6Q6HFLeEA4IQ43%26customid%3Ds%253AGS%253Bgc%253ACjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1KSxFVW3ZX0HEbha8XihHkncfslpJfLpyKmGBqLp9dXzQtJjV2-tBBoC95sQAvD_BwE%253Bpt%253A1%253Bchoc%253A2&customid=s%3AGS%3Bgc%3ACjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1KSxFVW3ZX0HEbha8XihHkncfslpJfLpyKmGBqLp9dXzQtJjV2-tBBoC95sQAvD_BwE%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A1
(Never dealt with them etc etc...)
Matt

[SteveW]

I’ve used this kit, had very good results with it

https://www.weldequip.com/polishing-set-115mm.htm

[Laverdaroo]

ice hint, fanks Matt

[Oddjob]

I tried using those oxide wheels and I wasn't that impressed TBH, firstly, the amount of stuff flying off is excessive, covered everything in my garage with a layer of crap, secondly, they wore down quickly, I'd bought a fine one to see how it would go, didn't want to chance rough or coarse in case it trashed the surface, even fine really dug in, the only casing I'd ever gone through was done using that type of wheel, saying that it was really bad to start off with, which was why I thought I'd see if that type of wheel may work better.

This is what I tried, https://bolgers.co.uk/collections/buffing-polishing/products/satin-finish-abrasive-wheel-200mm. It's less than 4" now after just one session.

Roo, it's not really speed it's power. I had good results with a 370w grinder, the 650w I now use is a lot better. Don't press on hard, try letting the soap do the work, if the soap is hard enough it will cut through quite quickly, I only tend to use pressure when I spot a bad area. Don't expect a good finish within a few minutes, it can take a while to get a good finish, the rougher the surface to start with the longer it takes, the soap has to cut down all those micro ridges in the metal, this takes time. Keep at it, it will get better. I'm not sure what you're doing wrong, maybe you're expecting more than is possible, I've been doing this for some time now and I can say the experience means I know what to expect, sometimes even I get a little despondent as some metal for some reason doesn't want to play ball, the answer is to keep at it, don't give up. Water is soft yet it can cut through rock easily given enough time, that's all you need, not water you nutter, time.

[Laverdaroo]

Thanks Ken, Ive been on this for bloody hours now

It just seems that the more you tale away the more appears! Anyway, I'll keep going......


Just been to the chromers again to pick up the re-worked clutch cover and the head light ears. The ears are a bit better but the clutch cover has come back not flattedoff, not cleaned and with ripples in the metal stillsonot that impressed at all. If thisis what they do for a living, they need a new job .

I dont normally name drop if it's crap service but if you find that your only choice of polisher is Taylor's in Western, dont bother. They looked at me like I'd just made them eat dog crap when I asked them why, for the second time, have they not done what they said and they said they didnt have time, simple as that! When asked I was told old metal and dont have the time to dress it. They were only supposed to polish it and they haven't even done that very well!


I'd previously left my exhast there to get fettled and rechromed but took them back today, they're not laying a finger on those, too risky and I dont like getting dissapointed!

So, I'm open to suggestion on these. They are in reasonable nick and look great from the front, its when you look at the top of the headers at the rear, they are a bit scabby and need work.................Whadda ya reckon as first point of call? My pal blasted em for me and I'm left with this. Although a bit shaggedout, I think they're do-able but I have no idea with chrome,........ as can be witnessed.

There's plenty of metal on them just less in the manky areas, is it possible to weld filler metal on to re flat down prior to chroming? If not what options do you think might be available to me on these?
 Whatever happens, it ;looks like I will be the mug flatting themoff but not sure of whats actually achievable. I see all these old bikes with beautiful chromed exhasts and having never done a set before, wonder how they come out so good? I apprciate that you need the best you can source to start and that's what I thought I had for the money I had budgeted for the pipes but it looks like Im gioing to be paying a fortune for this set in the end!

Any advice and help gratefully recieved.
I'll bob some shots up when ive taken a couple.

[Laverdaroo]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Laverdaroo]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Laverdaroo]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sesman]

Paint, chrome or ceramic?

[mickwinf]

the problem with the exhausts is the access for polishing, not easy to get to. Anything is possible but most companies would not spend hours and hours as price would be prohibative.

[mickwinf]

By the way this thread is costing me a fortune buying all these products!

[Laverdaroo]

Chrome definitely for this build. The 400 pipes were always going to be black but these need to be chrome. I know theyre not going to be factory finish but when youre this deep into it as you know you might as well get it done as best as you possibly can. It would be rude not to.

I'm not even sure if you can split these pipes, I suspect not but even so, I think its going to be eons with wet and dry belts and poking about getting black with theseisnt it. The piccie is a bit duff unless you zoom in. I'll take another of the really crap bits


By the way this thread is costing me a fortune buying all these products.........goooood, youre doing it right then!

It would'nt be fun if it wasnt dear

[Oddjob]

Sorry for this Mick but I've just been in the garage flatting down since 2pm. I've been doing not only my own bike but my lads new VT1100C I bought from DS. It's a 1985 model so it's getting on a bit and the PO has clearly been using this for touring around on as the grab rail has bloody great lumps missing of the edges where straps etc have rubbed them away. The grab rail is 3 parts, 2 side rails bolted to a top loop, all alloy with decorative reflective inserts along with a padded back rest etc. Took it apart and attempted to do the usual with it, the finish on it is frankly awful, where you can't see or wouldn't bother to look, like the underside, Honda didn't even bother to do anything, there are grinding marks where excess alloy was ground off so it wouldn't cut your fingers etc but these marks were just left, bloody great track marks across the alloy. My lad wanted to have a go at doing these himself so I gave him one side to do along with a spare Dremel, he didn't do a bad job TBH but comparing mine with his showed where he'd skipped bits or just didn't have the patience to do a proper job, the youth of today eh 

Anyway, I took over and got them reasonable, did a small area with the polisher and it didn't turn out great so back to the Dremel again. This time however I was through with mucking about and being gentle with it, out came the 80 grade flap wheels, not a bad choice as it happens as a lot of the rail is flat with just chamfered edges between the 2 flat parts. These really made a big difference, the surface was flatter than with the brushes, which is a problem with them, and I did the top loop and one side and then went over them to remove sanding marks with a red disc until I was happy with them. The other side I hadn't touched until today, this I decided to do differently. I did the first flat with the normal 80 flap wheel but then I got my secret weapon out, some finer flaps wheels I'd bought some months ago but never really used, 3 grades, 180, 240 and 320, did the rail with the 180 first, just did a small area to see how it would come out, oh my what a difference, it went flat, just a few sanding marks left, onto the 240, went flatter still and started to shine, always a good sign, finally the 320, well it looks awesome, really smooth, quite shiny like a first polish. I can't wait to do the rest of that rail and see how it comes out, I'm impressed.

However.

There is a snag, the flap wheels don't fit the Dremel, they weren't made for the Dremel, the shaft they fit onto is too thick for the Dremel. So I'd bought them to see if I could adapt them and even without a lathe I figured out how to do it, not great but it works.

I'll post some pics when the side rail is done and also a link to the new flap wheels, I think they'd be ideal for the brake plate Roo as it's flat and big so no tricky little intricate areas to negotiate.

[Laverdaroo]

They sound like a good do Ken, Cant you get a flexible drill chuck that takes that size shaft though? I have one thats like a dremel endbut doesdrill bits to 3/8", that goes into the cordless or powerdrill in the vice. Doing ot on a lathe would surely have your piece very close to the rotating chuck giving you restricted manouvering room?